Is this push to start? Does it need a switch?
a switch. build-in antispark
if you’d have designed a dual ZESC Warrior 6 it would be so fucking sexy 
or even a mirror version of the ZESC warrior 6 series, I’ll def get one for my next build tho.
dual version was paused since May. I don’t know when I could continue. Maybe end of this year, maybe next year.
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I’ve received mine today, really really nice looking, thanks @zhanzhan.
I must say that @zhanzhan was extremely communicative and helpful since I had some issues with the customs. He helped in any way possible from his side.
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Those look awesome dude. Way smaller than I pictured.
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Hi really interested in this vesc looks nicely designed I’m after 2 for a second build wondering if these are proving reliable? And do they work on work on tampa vesc tool?
Thank you
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Hi,
Any feedback on zesc warrior 6?
Can it run reliably on 13s and 3kw without any issues?
I am thinking of using it on a motorcycle with hub motor which is pretty power hungry. I’m using a vesc now on 12s with 70a phase and 35a battery current (~1.5kw) but I feel I could improve the performance. Standing start on a hill is pretty limited by 70a phase current.
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I bought the Warior 6 vesc, it’s incredibly tiny. The craftsmanship is excellent, i can’t find any fault.
The only thing which i don’t like is the thin power supply cables which are 14awg. This esc is rated at 60A for battery and i don’t think they can sustain that current for long without heating up.
The phase wires seem more adequate at 12awg.
I will get back with some reports after testing.
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Yes, they will heat up to some degree. That’s why we use wire with high-temperature silicone insulation that’s good to 150-200 degrees C.
Shorter lengths of wire have less voltage drop (and thus power loss), so as long as you keep the wires short, that also allows you to get away with thinner wires.
This is why house wiring (at least here in the US) is specced at 20 amps @12AWG, whereas in esk8 use, 12AWG is good for more like 80-100A. Shorter runs, more premissible heating.
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The power loss, and heating, per length of wire is the same no matter what the length is. If a wire has a 1mW loss per inch then it has that whether it is 1 inch long or 1 mile long.
The total power loss over the length of wire changes for different lengths, of course, but the amount of heat each bit creates always stays the same.
Shorter lengths can run cooler though because the heat is being sinked out of the ends. A longer piece of wire can’t efficiently transfer its heat out the ends as well as a shorter piece and so will run hotter. A shorter piece of wire can be more effectively cooled by heat flowing out the ends.
But both pieces would run at the same temp if there wasn’t any heat going out the ends.
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The current rating for house wiring is based on max allowed temp increases during use (to keep insulation intact) for particular types of insulation and the number of conductors and where they are run. esk8 wire runs heat up just as much, even though shorter runs are made, but we allow wiring to get much hotter before we worry and we use higher temp-rated insulation.
Many of us are also not worried about power losses (voltage drops) as we need a certain size wire in order to fit everything or to make certain bends and we will deal with whatever power losses we get. Household wiring is much more regulated to prevent large voltage drops.
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I should have rephrased that:
“Shorter runs, and more permissible heating (due to higher temperature insulation), both combine to allow us to run a lot more current through thinner wires.”
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Hey fellas does anyone have any real world experience with these ESCs? I’m planning on dropping these into a build this spring and would greatly appreciate any info. 
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@zhanzhan Could I make a suggestion, I think there should be a little more information on the product page about the firmware. At minimum list which version it is derived from. Its very hard to tell otherwise. I guess its 5.01 or 5.02?
Also a little info stating that you indeed need to use your modified version and why. Would be really helpful for someone new to the website that has not read the forum thread about it.
There is no mention on the product page that this is a DRV less variant and thus needs a modified firmware.
I used the variESC Tool to setup up mine and it worked fine. I did not load any firmware just what shipped in the device. FYI if anyone wanted to know.
So far I only bench tested with 5065 140kv racestar motor, setup FOC sensoless and HFI, ADC1 throttle, all worked smoothly.
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Hi, Thank you for the suggestion. it is based on fw5.01.
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any one running the warrior 7 on 18S currently? eyeing them for some up coming batts
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A new variant is added.
Warrior-6 BB (Balance board) has internal IMU BMI 160.
In addition to Raiden-7, you have another choice for building one-wheel.
Check it out: https://www.discoverzesc.com/
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