Tried to turn on my board and got nothing today. Have taken it all apart and found a shorted chip from the looks. PCB won’t turn on at all, even with mom pins shorted.
Obviously would like to hopefully have this repaired before spending the money on a stormcore
Hm I just had a unity die on me randomly too, wonder if the same chip died on mine
I don’t know what this chip is apart of. Everything else on the PCB looks fine however. Same with the backside. No burns or marks. Just this one damn chip.
It looks like it could be repaired if the part is able to be sourced. I don’t know how I would go about getting this repaired and my hands about as steady as Michael J Fox’s.
I did shoot bkb support an email with my photos as even if they cannot help me, I hope this may be able to help them diagnose further issues with the esc.
I posted 4 photos in the main post. The last two photos are of the affected chip which has “KJNH7” written across the top. I can get more and better photo(or try to atleast) just let me know what you need.
Edit: my bad didn’t see who the reply was to lol
I did, not sure if this is an appropriate place to post them
@ISOgone4good do you care? I can’t be of any real help to you, unfortunately, my esc troubleshooting usually just involves having it replaced lol
I dont mind at all. I already know this is a crapshoot and will be replacing with a 60d. Its just big sads and high hopes to eventually bring it back from the dead.
Anyways, show us what you got
So mine died on the bench, right after switching motor direction unloaded. Conked out, won’t turn back on at all. Antispark doesn’t do anything
I tried just plugging it right in, nothing happened. I can’t see anything wrong with it either, so I’m kinda stumped.
Yours looks fixable. Lm5060 chip looks toasted. All you need is a solder iron/hot air station and some patience to get that thing running again.
If you don’t like the idea of trying to fix it, I would buy it for spare parts.
Zoom in here.
@MartinSp might be able to help troubleshoot your issue.
Oh perfect I didn’t see that the first time. I think I could fix it - I don’t know what kind of coating is all over this though, kind of looks like conformal?
Should I just look on digikey for lm5060? Any idea what that chip is?
Antispark chip. You can replace it. Search Forum xenith Achilles heel. I prefer the xt90 loop key fix, as it seems the chip replacement may not last that long.
It is sad that they told about that issue without specifying exactly what is wrong with the circuit. I will put my build probably this month and we will see how fast it will break.
They only mentioned that there is an issue with switch circuit. I will probably manage diagnose it and repair it but it is most likely blown LM5060 (I was wrong in my previous post).
You can replace it and Xenith should work again but it won’t solve the issue it might break again. I cannot find any schematics for Unity so that will make things harder but what’s important is thinking outside the box.
I looked at that issue, to be more precise, at images posed with blown up LM5060 and we can see that something burned/shorted at Supply voltage input side. Without any checking first what comes to my mind is to put TVS diode to protect LM5060 from overload but this is just a wild guess.
I think that this issue occurred only for people with 12S batteries.
As I mentioned before we can think outside of the box. They already fixed the issue in V2. Can someone take a picture around that area (high quality) so we can se what changed ?
I searched the whole thread and this is really the only useful thing I found, nothing on a link to it or how to actually go about doing it
Also - what would be the circuitry bypass? For me it seems much easier to short the antispark to always on and just use a loop key
There are a bunch of threads on the antispark chip. The reason I had you read that thread was to show you it’s a known issue that can be fixed. I’ve never replaced a lm5060, I removed it. Along with the 4 little transistors above the caps. You also have to remove the 4 fets nearest to the power leads. Then you bridge all the pads. Let me look for some pics for you
Ah perfect thanks for the help, sometimes it can be really annoying to actually find solutions in threads.
Sounds decently easy. I might try it out
Yeah let me know how it goes! My unity for as long as I could remember, it would cut out momentarily after riding over a large bump or crack in sidewalk. Until one day, it cut out and wouldn’t turn on mid shred. After doing this mod, my unity NEVER cuts out no matter what. It’s definitely more reliable now than before. If you decide you don’t want to, I’ll buy it from you.
For sure, I’ll let you know. It’s not high priority right now but since it’s mostly removals I’ll probably end up doing it