The Last Century | Unity | 6374 | 12s4p 40T | SZ RKP | XTLA

Hey! :wave:t3:

View My Second Build Here

Update May 2021: 95% Finished

I Present: “The Last Century”


Starting my 3rd build now, and the idea behind this one is to make a street carver, that can be swapped easily between Thane, Rubber, and AT setups. Something with an ultra-board feel, that’s light and looks sleek.

Parts are starting to roll in and building is under way. The battery is the first objective, and will be made by myself. Once I finish the battery, I will sort the deck and enclosure out and start working on the drive train.

A list of parts are below, and I’ll continuously update the thread until it’s complete! Let me know what ya think!

Parts:

  1. @eBoosted Carbon Fiber Century & Enclosure
  2. Flipsky 6374 Motors
  3. FocBox Unity
  4. Surfrodz RKP w/ Bowery Surf ABP
  5. @Boardnamics 10-8 SZ Fixed Axel
  6. @XTLA Motor Mounts
  7. Splattergoat Grip Tape
  8. @SabreDynamics Anti Sink Plate
  9. Raw Davega @janpom
  10. 12s4p 40T Built by Me

Build Threads :point_down:t4:

Battery Building

This was my first battery I’ve ever built. @BenjaminF was a true gent and guided me the entire way. Such a huge help to our community that man.

1. P Groups, Gluing, Insulating Rings

2. Pre Soldering, Spot Welding, Fish and Kapton Wrapping

3. Series Connections, Reinforcing

4. Balance Wires, Charge, BMS Hookup

5. Charger Splitting and Heat Shrink

6. Profit!

Pack Reworking

Rebuilt the pack with a smaller AWG for the series connection to give more clearance.

Drivetrain Assembly

These Bowery surfs and XTLA mounts are awesome. Allows you to get the angle you want, without sacrificing anything.

Did some dremel work to the enclosure for the phase wires.

Final Product

Contemplating running 115s on occasion and tested the fitting out. 6” look great too!

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BN220 trucks + hangers + idler mounts are a good combo

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Really wanted to avoid idlers. I always hear of people bitching about them.

The pulleys I have currently have 10mm bearings so I’m interested in stepped axels as well. I assume his surfrodz stepped axels would work on the BN220s?

Wheels might be too small for a drop deck like that, you might need some riser blocks.

Battery depends on how much you value your time. If you’re willing to work for the savings, then this being your 3rd board already, it probably will pay off to get a spot welder so that you can build the battery both for this board, and the inevitable future ones. Otherwise, it’s dangerous stuff and takes a lot of time, so might be worth paying one of the good builders on here :slight_smile:

Can’t comment on trucks, but I think Surf Rodz make the least sense, since they have pretty bad customer service (even compared to Torqueboards lol), and cost more. They make sense on builds where other truck’s geometry just doesn’t work.

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I love idlers :heart: Means looser belts and less belt skip

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Valid point. Not opposed to getting riser blocks or going up in wheel size. I particularly like the metroboards 155s.

Totally interested in doing it myself. I value the money savings cost, just a bit nerve racking.

I agree, did some digging and motor mounts seem hard to find as well. @ARZ suggestion is kind of spot on of what I was thinking.

What baseplates would you suggest? Is the adjustable baseplate worth the extra money for a setup like this?

@Boardnamics I’ve previously bought from these guys and came across a new product that has your name on it.

Boardnamics Collab Truck

Do you have any info on these trucks? Length, axle diameter, etc.

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Yes. They are 220mm length with 50mm axles. Fits evolve style mounts

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Adjustable baseplates have the advantage of being larger, so you might not need as many risers with them :stuck_out_tongue:

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Nope, I’d say get the machined ones but if you want adjustable angles go for it :call_me_hand:

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I’ve settled on some trucks, buying a spot welder and the plan is to take it slow.

I need some help determining what angles to run on this deck. I’ve never used a deck with different tail and nose.

Any suggestions as to what degree to put in the back and the front?

Me too, zero issues with the newest design from BN.

@Mawzie idk who you heard complaining about them

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Quick Update:

Just finished the battery for this build, and I’m happy to report that it all went pretty smooth for my first ever battery build. Full photo dump of the battery building process is at the top!

Thank you @BenjaminF for all of your help kind sir!

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You’re very welcome! Great work on this battery :slightly_smiling_face:

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dude that batt is clean for a first one/for a seasoned batt builder even - nice work man

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What baseplates do these work with? Regular caliber2? Or do they come with baseplates?

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Thanks so much, I really appreciate that. Slow and steady and a lot of questions to Benjamin lol.

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Whoop! Man has this one taken longer than the others. So many things went wrong and so many things went right.

I present to you: “The Last Century”.

Still a WIP and I’ll update the build thread tonight, but she runs (good I might add)! Still need to sort the grip tape, motor wires slack, loctite enclosure, bushings, and the belts might be too tight. But none the less it’s finished.

Few problems I ran into along the way, I built the pack before having a deck and enclosure sorted, which is terribly wrong thing to do. I went through 3 deck/enclosure combos which delayed this boards birth 2 months. I had to rework the pack to get a slimmer profile as well. You might remember I used 12AWG for the series which is just to thick and it was standing up more than I’d like.

Here is the pack rebuild:

Alongside that, this is a carbon fiber skinned century by @eBoosted so I flipped the orientation to put the series connections far away from the deck to avoid a subsequent short.

Unfortunately, she turns like a dump truck. And I’ll need to investigate what went wrong. I’d appreciate some help here. I have a feeling it’s a combination of too hard of a duro, using to short of bushings, and maybe some angle issues.

I don’t know much about these Bowery Surf baseplates, so I really don’t know what angle I am running.

Some Thank Yous:
@BenjaminF - For guiding me through the pack and battery building. Not to mention like 200 questions I’ve asked. We just hit like 400 messages. True Duck right there.

@eBoosted For this wonderful combo!

@janpom For Davega

@XTLA for these sick mounts

@SabreDynamics Anti Sink Plates

@rusins For the adjustable baseplates

@b264 That Epoxy is no joke, fixed the loose insert no problem!

Once again, thanks to this community, and all you wonderful fucks!

15 Likes

Yeah for a high angle at the front you really need soft bushings for it to want to turn.

Also good on you for turning the battery upside down! Personally I would put a layer of velcro (if there’s space, lol) between the battery and the deck. You really don’t want that pack moving back-and-forth alongside the carbon deck :laughing: Or maybe you can try gluing it in place in the enclosure somehow / adding a 1mm thick sheet of foam between the two.

Great build name!

3 Likes