I talked about this a long time ago with someone who mods OWs and he said that the V1 hub is build different than normal BLDC motors. It has multiple stators that are slightly shiftet in relation to each other. He also said that they dont work good with vesc.
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Have you tried 5.2 firmware?
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If you search I have been talking about that for like a year.
where there is a will there will be a way
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Nope just messing around with Vtool 3
now on the beta 5.03, dang I like the dark theme.
I got it “balancing” AKA jittering instead of balancing and always jetting off one direction.
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Update.
it doin rides
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did anyone say 4680 cells in a OW frame? we’re talking years out here
looks like 18S plus a focer.
Tesla 4680
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Oh I wanted to ask if it is stupid to try turning on HFI? for shits the gigs if anything.
Torque really seems to be fine at the moment actually.
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I encourage trying HFI and I’d love to hear details about your experience. But, I doubt it will work well for this.
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What do you all think of this idea:
Buy an OW XR and while it us completely unused, install this 5S2P booster pack along with the ESC upgrade. Giving you a split 20S2P for under 2.5?K total including the new board.
The cells should have the same capacity so what could go wrong?
@Battery_Mooch
(Some minor BMS issues to overcome)
I had an even more wild idea about making this front booster battery have higher capacity cells and some kind of special protection to make sure it does not discharge unbalanced to the rear pack.
This extra capacity would be used to power the GPS for extended periods, or even if the board was taken apart after being stolen.
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With a good BMS it should be okay. Even without a good BMS it might be okay.
As long as the GPS does not share any wiring with any other circuitry that might work. Since the GPS’ “ground” will be at up to 63V any connection of that “ground” to the OW’s common/ground will be…umm…exciting.
Possibly lots of extra work for the BMS. Make sure it’s a good one. No, a really good one.
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I would use only the identical cells, and only if they’re all brand new
Or just take out the OW battery & ESC and sell them to someone in need, and have fun with the rest 
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right that is what would be best to try first, I plan on selling fiberglass reinforced prints of the ESC and battery cases to people with possibly battey building also. The 5S2P booster pack idea just makes sense because someone getting into OWing and wanting a top of the line new board might not feel like selling their battery and therefor this would make it useful. Then the 21700 cell version only “makes sense” because there is leftover space there that could be used for capacity.
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On another note I hope I someday find the crazy customer who wants a Trampa 100/250 and a matching 22S2P pack. Now that would be an epic reason to get the board widened.
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I thought I was watching the thread but somehow missed messages.
Did you settle on your final design yet? 
FWIW my pipe dream plans for an XR build were entailing making the controller box full length and “somehow” make the cable connecting work:
- You don’t need a battery connector at all, you can just do a fixed cable like on the Pint
- For motor phases I thought to use MT60 outside the box and just hide it in the rail. Seal it with teflon tape or shrink tube with glue or something
- For motor sensors maybe an external grade connector could be found that would fit on the cables inside the rail too
- No clue about footpad sensors but something could surely be hacked together
Note I am thinking with decent to good waterproofing in mind… without that you can just do whatever
The point is the connectors take way too much space that can be used for batteries
But then again if there will be a 19S2P 21700 battery box, maybe I’d just put the last two cells in the controller box to get to 20S and call it…
But I won’t be doing an XR for some time yet…
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that’s exactly what im trying to do with an XR at the moment. Mt60 for the phase cables and Julet Mini plug for the sensor cables.
Problem is that im not that good at CAD. I would need a cad model of the OW with rails or at least the back enclosure so i can modify it.
I also would like to remove the front handle and replace it will a side strap so the enclosure can be even bigger.
This would be a good place to start. Sadly it cant even fit a bms.
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Look no further my friend, I already have done more than half this!
Speaking of, I got a notification that I was refunded for this 20S smart BMS but I guess it changed it’s mind. It will be really awesome to use it with METR… The OW that everyone wants!
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What 20s bms are you going to use?
This is the only smart bms I found that could reasonably fit. Its flat enough that you could still put one layer of cells above it. But I would also accept “only” having a 20s2p in the battery compartment and the bms and controller in the front.
I Also would like to 3d print the enclosure with a metal plate at the top (and maybe bottom) similar to the case I posted on thingiverse.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083QY5QQ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I found the 30A version here with the dimensions listed. I found the source on ali but no dimensions listed for the 30A for some reason.
I will release after I get it and refine the model
amzn link Claimed 30A Size: Approximately. 170 x 60 x 12 mm / 6.7 x 2.4 x 0.5 in
other 20 non smart BMS on amazon: Size: 120* 60* 9mm.
it nearly fits right in that XR stock case
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That looks great. Even if it doesn’t fit in the back it would still save a lot of space.
I recently repaired and testet a OW V1 with an increased battery (14s3p). It has a smart bms so I could look at the power it’s actually drawing. It only uses 500-600W when accelerating hard the highest we got was 900W peak. So the battery of a DIY OW really doesn’t need to be very powerful. At max 1000W continuous 1500W burst or something like that. That’s still probably to much for the hub for a longer time.
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well you are skipping over where you turn the setting wayy up on the DIY wheel. I don’t think a weak battery would like my 100A batt 150A max ABS…
I still think a 24S A123 pack is nearly the perfect choice except in terms of range/ not having a split pack, although a BMS is optional with a123 cells as long as you check em every 20 rides maybe.
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