Found another one close enough.
Also this will reduce the loose printed battery box noise.
Fl∅AT sup.
Fl∅AT sup.
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maybe you mentioned before, but heres my question: How fast can this baby go?
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Realistic riding speed of about 20mph max. This is without field weakening that can spin up the motor to 50-80mph.
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ahh, i was confused bc of 24s then i realized A123 cells.
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Trying to make the battery modules remove easily ish. so a split compartment up front is what I am working towards.
Having the modules slide out the side of the rail no footpad removal would be tight.
would look like this kinda. if it was wired for parallel modules they could be 20S1P.
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Getting close
Figured out I needed motor and battery connections all run up one rail/side, not much room.
think I will not have MR60 inside the box, just wires from the esc to the connector external due to no room to mount.
The esc would have nowhere to sink heat unless I attach it to the rail.
this alu bit would be glued into the box and hopefully extract enough heat and not leak.
What if the inside aluminum piece was a bit bigger touching more of the ESC, think sideways T. And fin the outside for better cooling?
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Good thoughts but I think you missed this is between the esc and the rail.
Although… if I wanted to I could drill holes in the rail where this alu heatsink spacer part is and expose it to air, then fins would make sense actually. Similar thought would be gluing the bottom of the esc to the case to seal it off then have holes in the bottom of the bumper to let air get all up in there. I like the idea of using the rail the most. Sidenote I really want to make custom footpads that have smaller sensors so one corner could be cut out and let you have the esc on its side up against the rail.
The other thing I like about this is it would firmly fix the esc in place instead of having it all be friction fit box being squeezed by the rails.
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huh not unless you did a trick… so better idea to keep it out of the footpad area entirely.
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I think one issue I was not thinking about is something going under the footpad then you crush it against the inside cases.
That looks janky
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I want to use this general bushings mounted footpad idea to make my own footpad sensor.
The copper pads on either side might get shorted unless there was a rubber boot
Shorted footpads isn’t the worst thing… I mean look at the Giant Thrust FM.
Haven’t really been following this thread great
Sorry if it’s a stupid question but what you using for the frame?
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Funking rails clearlyy
jk rails from Onewheel V1 (2014-15)
bang bumpers and XR footpads that are due to replacement.
Hoping to get some aftermarket footpad sensor for the next board that will have XR rails and BadgerBumpers. Motor wise either a superflux or floatwheel 6in hub.
The gearbox hub is still in planning phase.
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Do you know where you can get the rails from
I want to build one but can’t seem to find a good base to use
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I mean you could get these!
Jk that’s like 600euroz
Many of the aftermarket ow parts makers sell new rails or you hop on fb or whatever and find someone with old ow rails for like $60.
Funwheel and Floatwheel rails could also work.
Lastly I have seen some good builds that just use random alu or steel stock.
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Ffs never posted the “good” detection results.
V1 onewheel transverse flux motor detection “500w” VESC Little FOCer. TFM
