Yes, what @kook said. What material is your enclosure made from? How about the deck? Is there carbon fiber anywhere? Do you have any photos?
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+1
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we donāt even know at this point if he made a pigstail out of the receiver antennaā¦ or stick it under a heat-sinkā¦
a properly aligned dipole will be much better at reception than a randomly placed antenna
there is a lot to think about, and IMHO the PPM cable is probably the last of my concernsā¦ on my hoyt I eliminated the RC plug and soldered everything togetherā¦ I hate misc. random connections and jumpers in my boards
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I do this on EVERY build
Once it works on the bench, anyway
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i just use gum to hold my electrical tape on the connectors.
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spit works gUUD on my powersupply leads!!!
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You should check out butyl tape, itās better than used chewing gum in basically every way except price and taste
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Thatās why I posted on here. To get input on things I may not have thought of.
The enclosure is 3d printed plastic. There is a heatsink, however my receiver is directly next to it and attached to the plastic on the upper side of my enclosure closest to the remote.
My cut outs only happen in the downtown area, which is why I thought changing the signal type might help.
It would be cool if all I had to do is change the orientation of the antenna, but the fact that the disruption only happens in certain locations leads me to believe that isnāt the issue
2.4 GHz is 2.4 GHz whether the remote is UART controlled or PPM controlledā¦
my first best would be what I suggested aboveā¦ Iād closely examine the antennas on the remote and receiverā¦ and orient the dipole antennas perpendicular, in riding stance
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noā¦ you posted looking for a ppm cableā¦ iām almost 100% sure of that
and led you to the conclusion that you needed a new PPM cable
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I didnāt say I thought it was the issue. Just that id rather eliminate simple cheap things, and if it solves the problem, all the better.
Plus I Jerry rigged the thing from old parts since I didnāt have the correct cable laying around.
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I also posted on the noob section about this issue, so I just lost track of what conversation was which
the cheapest is to look at your set-up
make it the best you can
mark in your mind the cut-out spots
and plan for problems or avoid those locationsā¦
iāve been luckyā¦ I make sure everything is okey-dokey in my equipment and itās the best I can make itā¦
and Iāve never had reception problems
mini
vx1
puck
double check your antennasā¦ for cuts/shielding/solder joints/orientation then you can cross that off your list
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Antennae location makes a big difference. Next to the battery has not worked well for me. Over the ESCs has worked better in my experience. Also make it an L shape and try that too.
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These last two post are good suggestions. Im not super familiar with this.
L shape? Im assuming thats what kook meant by perpendicular.
Iāll give it a try
Iām not particularly satisfied with avoiding spots. Locally is one thing,but im not going to ride around constantly worrying that ill hit an interference spot.
I like a location away from all power and metalā¦ if Iām riding regular and a thumb wheel my remote will be on the right-hand side edge of the enclosure
if Iām using the miniā¦ i use it left handed so everything is reversed
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3 EE degrees later I can say with 85% certainty that metal blocks RF signals
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noā¦ look at the null points on dipole antenna radiationā¦ out the ends of the dipole are null points, poor receptionā¦ you want the antennas to be perpendicular to each other not parallelā¦
I never-ever tried an L shape dipole antenna, never occurred to me to tryā¦
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I gotcha. Iāll do some experiments. If I can figure out where to move the pins for the vx1 receiver (for v6)to work with Unity, ill give that a try as well