Trampa WAND connectivity issues - Gathering feedbacks (SERIOUS)

So how would a setup look like to use both modules side by side, i imagine id need some crimp some cables

The Metr Pro UNITY sit’s inside the Unity’s silicon case using its own UART port. You can connect any device like a receiver for a remote or DAVEGA or any other UART device on the external port thats still free.

What percentage of Hot Glue (PMA/PVA based HMA) is comprised of water?

Is Hot Glue considered to be non-RF transparent?

See alot of anger about a dab of glue, before you start your witch hunt I can tell you that there isn’t a material in this world that dsn’t affect radiowaves in some form if its put on or close to the antenna.

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No anger here. Personally I’d prefer a bit more testing rather than one assumption/correlation being made and that being declared the cause.

Like even the very basic notion of the scientific method, ya know?

I just now purchased a second Wand (ya purple!) as my first wand got sent over to my colleague for validation testing/firmware development. I have some 51822 based hardware as well as some 52840 based hardware and plan on doing some range/interference A/B testing.

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Weren’t you the one who said you don’t need 100m of range with @rpasichnyk @hexakopter Metr


:neutral_face:

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Never mind @hexakopter is one step ahead hahahaha.

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I’ll start off by saying I’m not a huge fan of Frank’s.

Y’all are being dicks to Frank and Frank doesn’t deserve it this time.

One of his customers was having an issue, and Frank was trying to help him out.

The first step in troubleshooting something that recently broke is to figure out what changed. OP mentioned adding hot glue, so Frank suggested removing the hot glue. This is not an unreasonable suggestion.

I get to work with RF propagation in my day job every once in a while. Glass windows normally cause ~1dB of attention in 2.4ghz, so about a 2/3 of the power gets through. The new energy efficient windows we just installed at one of our facilities have an attenuation of about ~15dB or 1/25 of the power gets through. Suffice to say, there’s almost no WiFi reception on the outside of our building. I had not planned for that, nor did I think that was possible until I tested it myself.

RF is voodoo magic, so saying that hot glue could never possibly cause this issue without having tested it yourself or having a degree/training/certification in RF is bullshit.

That being said, if this does end up being an RF issue it goes to show that having excess link budget is extremely important as it can save you down the road from issues you never expected, like RF attenuating hot glue.

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I disagree

I think there are many, many people who have issues… I know Yannick lost breaks at 50kmh going down hill. So uhm yeah quality

@mmaner

Well then why the f is it being used to move your body at ridiculous speeds? That’s just a useless argument.

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Maybe, but it was deserved. He said some stupid self serving crap, as is SoP, and he was corrected. End of story.

This has been going for years, Frank never changes, is never wrong, and is the savior of esk8 in his own head. In reality he is a mediocre pain in the ass that no longer has any real impact on esk8, but this fact hurts his feelings so he comes here acting all high and mighty to “lay down some facts” which are typically either not related to the issue at hand or self-serving and BS.

All that being said, unless you have a cogent argument then I would suggest moving along.

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I am calling for more testing, and I have experience with digital RF comms both in design & field testing applications.

The only thing I am pushing back against is arrival at an answer before any testing has been done, and stated inference that hotglue contains enough water for it to have a measurable impact. Plastics in general don’t tend to have a large enough impact to be of much concern in this application, based on my own real world testing + others in the osrr beta

The Trampa dongle is based on the Rigado (now uBlox) nrf51822 BMD-200 I believe:

https://www.digikey.com/en/product-highlight/r/rigado/bmd-200-bluetooth-low-energy-modules

Theory: This is not a particularly high performance chipset in the scale of the NRF 5X series, so it’s possible that the Trampa NRF dongle is more sensitive to interference from adjacent materials, where other transceivers out there are simply higher power/performance. Not all NRF modules are created equally.

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When did I take a break? :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:
Got a remote freeze, because it was FW 1.0 and didn’t update. After that I updated the Remote FW. Since then near flawless operation with latency issues from time to time.

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The forum when Frank Says anything:

Sorry for the derail. I do end up feeling bad for Frank at times. It reminds me of Jerry from Parks and Recs at times or Toby from the Office.

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Frank said the effect of “place the antenna so it has a straight shot to the wand”, “stuff on the antenna can negatively affect its performance.”,“Hot glue could cause attenuation”,“Try removing the hot glue to fix the issue”

None of these statements are inherently stupid. You just don’t want to admit that Frank is actually being reasonable this time.

Like I said in my original post, test it before you mock it.

In this case, testing is actually quite straightforward. NordRF, the chip manufacturers have an app that you can use to measure the signal strength of Bluetooth devices.

  1. Download the app “nRF connect”
  2. Turn on your board and measure the dBm ~4 feet above your enclosure, or roughly where the remote would be.
  3. Carefully clean the hot glue off the antenna module
  4. Measure the dBm in the same spot again

For the most accurate testing, it would probably be a good idea to measure the height each time

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@Pimousse You should include a poll in your first post, because in the original Wand thread I saw a lot of people having connectivity issues and blaming the metal case of the remote itself. Haven’t followed that thread in a while so I don’t know if anything changed.

Make a poll! Something like Working fine / Small glitches / Noticeable disconnects

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It actually is pretty stupid when there isnt a single other RX that has this requirement. Also, you are making assumptions when you say “You just don’t want to admit that Frank is actually being reasonable this time”. He isnt right this time. You just don’t wanna admit it :slight_smile:.

If 20 people are in the hospital with food poisoning from ground beef they bought at Walmart, do I need to go buy some and make burgers and sick before I can say that’s bullshit? No, I don’t, just like any other reasonable person. But you keep on with the kool-aid, its a good look for you :slight_smile:.

Asi I said way earlier in the thread, a part you didnt seem to read…

Have a nice day sir.

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I think Frank cast an ancient bavarian voodoo spell of perpetual triggering on @mmaner
It’s like groundhog day. Got old and boring a long time ago.

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Nope, that is not the one. Receiver side we use a module from Taiyo Yuden with a PCB antenna.
Wand side it is a 52840 with 8dBm.

Especially the very direct area of the antenna needs to be treated with care, since this can have quite an effect on the performance. So hot glue with hydrogen bonds are probably no good idea in this area.

However, if you change something and then you get issues that were not existant before the change, the logic approach is to go back to the configuration you had before and see if that resolves the issue. If it does, you know the source of the problem. Simple as that…

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Oh no, it happened again… :slightly_frowning_face:
@Trampa @mmaner @PixelatedPolyeurthan @NullReference and co.
Please fight in another place. I want to gather feedbacks of users.
I retain this post as the most useful amongst other users feedebacks (and some others about receiver alternatives) :

  • Deck : Trampa Holypro
  • Enclosure : eBoard Peru (should be glass fiber, TBC)
  • Placement :
  • Nothing changed in the placement. , I removed all old hot glue from ESC and receiver, I added a stripe of foam on the ESC edge then re-glued ieveything at the same place.
  • I can test with a new set of batteries to clear that point. :+1:

What should be kept in mind is that I DID HAVE already jerky behaviours BEFORE servicing.
It didn’t become bad, it became worse.

SERIOUS tag has been added to the title.

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That is not ideal placement wise. Next to the unshielded power stage and upright. Try to place it in a different location, edge of the enclosure but horizontally orientated.