You might want to get that checked out, it’s just a little swab, just breathe and exhale when they tell you to. Also, never look at the size of the swab when they say it’s a little one…
SHIPPED! I am as giddy as a schoolgirl.
Thanks @b264…you pretty much sold me on these single-handedly!
Luckkyyyy
Im getting excited waiting for them
I just got my tracking number 
These are going to arrive before I get some damn pulleys!
Im on the bandwagon! 
I wanted to get the red boa’s because the candy red is nice and matches my build, also lighter for commuter board. But they are out of stock for at least 8 weeks! 
That and the pre-order price is a great deal.
I guess I will just have to ride them till they wear down to 100mm, should get me two extra years use of the wheels!
The Boa wheels to me have more of a longboard-y feel while these are more plush and soft.
I’m running red boas right now, I’ve got a set if TB 110s coming that I’m going to switch out to.
my wheels come in tomorrow and i have no pulleys haha.
i ordered a ender 3 3d printer with a bunch of upgrades and a spool of regular cheap PLA for testing and Polymax filament for pulley printing!
@torqueboards what’s the diameter of the holes in the core? I am looking for dowel pins for some pulleys. I checked some cad of a kegel and a boa and they where 5.8mm and 5.4mm.
Also if it’s not too much to ask the center to center distance of the holes? I got 31.7mm based of a random kegel model. Thanks.
The holes are cone-shaped, so there isn’t a direct answer for that.
I found the best way to anchor to them is to have four bolts or dowels that are M5 size. But instead of putting them at 36 degrees (360 / 10) put them 74 degrees apart on each side (37 + 37). That extra degree is perfect and makes them nice and tight, and won’t wiggle when you hit the brake/accelerator.
From center (in a FUB machine shop), go from center axle
go right 0.376" up 0.499" and put a hole there
go right 0.376" down 0.499" and put a hole there
go left 0.376" up 0.499" and put a hole there
go left 0.376" down 0.499" and put a hole there
Cone shape makes sense as there needs to be some draft angle for molding. So I would want to know the minimum diameter of the holes? Would be great if that was 5.1mm as M5 would fit nice.
I have never ridden brand name longboard wheels. I have been using the same set of 97mm flywheel clones since I started esk8 two years ago. About 3000km. They are worn down to 91mm now but really have not chunked. Lots of cuts though. And the spokes are cracked which is disconcerting, been like that for a while.
So the difference should be quite big.
The two boards I ride the most, one has SuperFly and the other has TB110 {prototype} and it’s so noticeable how plush and bouncy the TB110 are.
You’re going to like these wheels.
mine just showed up.
Watch out for pulley issues, the narrow part of the spoke holes seems to be on the outside on most of these whereas the older kegel cores and the TB110 prototypes had the narrow part on the inside.
@longhairedboy The older 3D Servisas pulleys with the 5.6mm x 19.5mm pins fit great.
I wonder if the machined aluminum 15mm HTD5s that i’m running on my current Candy Crusher will work. I’m going to swap them out and find out what’s what. I also need to test fitment with my own pulleys.
@longhairedboy If you machine a pulley, I have a tip that works well for me. Kegel has ten holes which means they are 36 degrees apart. If you use 4 bolts and space them at 37 + 37 = 74 degrees, the extra degree makes them very tight and won’t wiggle during braking/acceleration/coasting transitions. So in a FUB machine shop, you’d put a hole at (from center)
+0.376", +0.499"
+0.376", -0.499"
-0.376", +0.499"
-0.376", -0.499"
The BKB pullys wont actually fit on the tight end, only on the loose end with heat shrink on the tips.
I found there was a small gap making it shift slightly