Depending on the airine it’s 22-25 batteries per passenger.
Got stopped in Amsterdam for a security check, but they seemed to be searching mostly for drugs. Was worried for a moment that maybe my hoyt boxes could have some traces of the devil’s lettuce 
I can’t speak for other countries but the dogs they walk you past here are only looking for guns and bombs.
Had to go through security in MPS aswell. (Transferring from interntional to a domestic flight, makes sense.)
Luckily they didn’t even question me.
Downside is that I was supposed to pick up my checked luggage, go through customs, and immediately check it in again XD
So because of that mistake my luggage is arriving on a different flight later today.
Thought I’d give an update on how this board is holding up:
Considering how last-minute I finished it, it held up surprisingly well! But of course, there were a few things that weren’t so perfect:
I used the 2 bolts in the middle of the claw mount to secure my plastic go-pro adapter, and I guess the threadlocker didn’t cure in time, so they came loose, and the adapter would wiggle back and forth and make a lot of squeaking sound. But because one of the bolts was still there, I couldn’t remove it Lesson learned: don’t add those bolts, and just use an adapter that fits well. Easy fix. (Also my front light would keep sliding downwards when mounted, I might need to put a foam block there to keep it level)
One of the rear tires got a flat on the last day of the trip. I forgot my spare tire and tube, but luckily @jack.luis had one on hand. Replacing a tube takes a while with these hubs, wish I had a spare hub + drives that I could quick swap wheels on. Also the other rear wheel got a flat the other day, but that’s probably from the tire being pretty worn out after this much riding 
Portland is a strange city. Near OMSI I suddenly had one of my motors full-brake on me, and it would not stop until I managed to forcefully move it 1 pole stop by hand. Motor wires got hot! 
(I wonder if a position estimation bug occurred or something? Anyone else experience that on a Stormcore 60D+ ? ) I also had my puck disconnect / lag at the same time as a bunch of other people at an intersection in downtown Portland. I’m still not sure what that was about, but luckily it went away after a few seconds.
Because my wheels are only 6.5", I can’t drag my board by the front without the gear drives / motors scraping. When I went shopping I would tie a rope around the nose of my board so that I could tow it at a low angle. Maybe I’ll make a tow-rope I can quick attach to the claw mount 
The foam block under my battery wore down 
Now let’s get to the praise and awards section 
– what worked well?
I was also able to turn way better than some other people’s boards, so I guess TKPs do have a bit of magic in them. I will experiment with WFB bushings to see if that makes me like them more (which might be bad for board control, but we’ll see…)
I was able to charge my board up super fast, and even have time to lend it to @Boardnamics to charge his limousine up faster at charge spots. 10/10 charger, just don’t forget to change the input voltage when you travel, accidentally blew my house’s breakers lol (Charger still works though 
)Anyway, if you made it this far, here are some random pictures from the trip 
Excellent work Raitis! I’m so happy/proud that you finished this build in time for Carve, and we all got to ride together so much!
This was determined to be a stormcore issue, not at all puck related as multiple non puck boards had the same issue, including mine
dude I had 2 of the non ninja star ones in my truck all weekend for my century. Same tires too
Their pricing for just 2 vs 4 sucks by the way.
Hmm, WFB 88A appears to be way too soft for esk8. Shoot.
Anyone got bushing recommendations for these trucks? I want to reduce the twichiness so that I feel comfortable at high speeds.
I believe Riptide does NOT recommend using WFB on eskates for bushings, based on the amount of exposed thread I would go for set of tall bushings, maybe snag a couple pairs of 90a and 87a and you can swap and mix them according to taste?
I should try APS then I guess? (Although @poastoast uses WFB and he definitely abuses bushings more than I do. I think)
Maybe I’ll try Krank again but with harder / softer combos / different shapes, possibly using the inner urethane rings to reduce slop further.
@RipTideSports This board being nearly 20kg and myself being 75kg (total of 95kg + maybe a backpack for 100kg), do you think WFB is out of the question on this setup? I see that the highest it goes to is only 95.5A
I didn’t quite like Krank on this board because the strong return to center really wants to cause wobbles with these TKP trucks, but maybe a different shape would fix that? (I used to run tall cones and barrels)
Uhh the riptide LaCroix bushings are wfb. This doesn’t sound right.
I run wfb just fine. 93 boardside 87 roadside barrels front and back. They run softer than the durometer states.
Hey! I run standard flexls, which are the same bushings.
I’m actually in the same situation as you as I need to find something better. I run the stock bushings cranked tf down, but it doesn’t give me the stability needed at speed
Just noticed this. Put wfb 93a tall barrel in the new savage baseplate and it feels soft as!
Thanks, was wondering about you using that. Will avoid then.
Welp, went on a group ride yesterday and banged up one of my motors against a tram track while going over it. Broken magnet. Board is surprisingly rideable, but I’ll have to replace the motor, and given how fast this occurred / how much I’ve been scraping them going up and down curbs or when dragging the board by the front, I think I need a different drivetrain solution.
Can’t switch to Rosa trucks because then the motors will be low again if I go with large ones, and I can’t even raise the motors higher in reverse mount because of the ESC case. I feel like I need to switch the deck to one with angled ends.
@Adstars Are your MTB type Ramm boards in stock? 
Pretty photo:
Maybe you can do what I did:
Move the motors up and sand down the board where it interferes.
I also moved the trucks back 1cm so there’s a little less sanding to do which required a little minor surgery on the drop-through hole.
If the motors still interfere with the ESC case maybe a combination of sanding down that edge of the case a bit and shimming it up / moving if forward a smidge can make it work?
I think it looks pretty hot if I may say so.
I’ve ordered a ton of riptide bushings to try out later, but I actually really like the setup I’ve randomly found at the moment; I did really well on a small race track with it, and it’s stable all the way up to my top speed. (Still not my favorite trucks, but damn do they perform well when racing)
Rear: White Krank street chubby (I used a bunch of washers to get it to the right height) and one of the lime green barrels the trucks come with
Front: Purple Krank tall fatcone, and the lime green barrel
