It’s just a metaphor and u can view it as a battery pushing a current/voltage as well. When there’s a voltage between two points current flows. If u want to say the battery pushes it or the esc pulls it doesn’t make a difference
MBoards has made some really great basic vesc videos lately and they cover the power button setup for maker in one of them (maybe this video but if not check the others they’ve released recently). Much easier to follow than makers documentation. I’ve been pointing multiple friends to these videos as so far they’re the most concise vesc videos I’ve seen.
Oh ok I get what you mean about the local and the separate sides of the VESC. It’s my first time ever setting up a dual so it’s a lot different then the single VESC I had especially with the remote, I’ll give those a shot and will let you know how it goes, thanks
Thanks for sending the video, I’ll have to see if they made anything else about the VESC and go from there, I’m pretty sure I did all the settings correctly just didn’t put it in the correct spots. The button was turning on and off before I configured it so I messed up on that but I’ll check it out
Update: I got the button to work but the motors still won’t spin. I switched the VESC remote tab to ‘Current No Reverse’ on the side the receivers on and still nothing. I have a VX1 remote so I’m not sure if that’s different
Hmm I might be wrong there as I haven’t actually used my remotes in UART in a long time, I prefer PPM personally. But you loose the ability to see the board’s charge level on the remote with PPM.
It’s worth a try to swap to the RX and TX cables going into the vesc, maybe they should be the other way around.
Check out this video on how to repin the JST cable:
If that doesn’t solve the issue then maybe someone else can chime in who used UART remotes recently.
On some PPM remotes with a display, you can still get the board’s charge level by using a “battery sense” wire to a pin on the receiver usually labeled BAT+ or BATT and goes to the positive of the pack before hits the ESC
The Maytech Trigger remote is one that comes to mind that does this.
I personally find it sketchy to have such a thin and fragile wire soldered into your main battery lead, I prefer to just simply not run it. And just use bluetooth to check battery level.
If this doesn’t do anything then I’ll have to swap it to PPM I was trying PPM to UART and that didn’t work so I’ll give it a shot switching the RX and TX cables, hopefully this solves it
Alright so all I gotta do is switch the RX and TX cables, hopefully that does it. So it’s more of a mix up on the design part or other vendors remotes aren’t compatible till after tinkering with it? Also I noticed both sides are the same, it is my first time ever setting up a dual so does it matter which side goes where or it doesn’t, I have my receiver on the far left and my Bluetooth module on the right closest to the switch
I’m having this problem with my DV4S when configuring the motors; during the verification process, only one motor spins, and then this message appears in the VESC. It’s running version 5.03.
@everyone, does anyone have any tips for me? I only managed to get the power button to work on the 8-pin connector, but I actually wanted to make it work on the 3-pin connector. Does anyone have any suggestions? I used 5V, GND, and SW on the 8-pin port, but I wanted to use the 3-pin connector on my DV5s with GND, 5V, and PWM.