Super sweet build.
1 Like
A few Qs:
How would you do the enclosure I’d you had to do it again from scratch?
Which riser-lights did you use?
What kind of conformal coating product did you use? Aren’t you worried about heat?
1 Like
Considering he has like 3 boards with the same enclosure I think he’s found what he likes short of having a fiberglass version.
It’s not a bad enclosure. Think he has a few left available.
Or maybe I got the last one.
2 Likes
Sweet! I am about to build 2 pennyboards with predator/ownboard hubs and this looks like the ideal enclose. Any chance you have one or two unused ones? Or where did you guys get these?
It’s an old metroboard enclosure case with a custom bracket clamp. It broke and I already replaced it once with the identical new thing 
I’d do it the exact same way again.
They are metroboard riser lights (2W, white&red variation) I bought directly from Ilan.
MG Chemicals #419D on all the electronics and small wire junctions and MG Chemicals #4223 on the loop key and phase wires
I size the wire such that it should be okay (green column Conductor Current Ratings [SRO]) but the conformal coating is NEVER the only insulation. The best joints imho are soldered, then covered with sealant (often MG 419D or MG 4223) then before the sealant dries, they are heatshrinked, then sealed again over that. The solder connections I also try to make skinny (skinnier than the wire insulation) and no sharp spots or I file off the sharp spots before sealing. I don’t want vibrations causing the sharp point to wear through the insulation and touch something else.
2 Likes
I do have a very small number of extra ones but I’ll have to give priority to others who’ve expressed interest prior. The number is very small.
Out of all my boards, this is the one I keep stepping on the most often
I highly suggest this type of board, in combination with some sort of long-range polyurethane-wheeled electric longboard.
And never think single-drive is weak. Single drive kicks ass a lot of times. Just put the motor on the rear heelside.
2 Likes
Yeah, if @BigBen made some sort of super-tall and super-short enclosure, especially boltless like this using a strap instead, it would be super awesome. Able to hold 50 cells stood up on their end and two controllers and a BMS and buck converter.
2 Likes
If you’ve got a plastic version, it wouldn’t be easy for me to make a mould from that?
2 Likes
Yes, but I’d want a tad more room for dual drive if needed. This one is great for single drive but there is absolutely NOT room for a battery, two FOCBOXes, a BMS, a buck converter, and a loopkey. There IS room for a battery, one FOCBOX, a BMS, a buck converter, and a loopkey. But adding that second FOCBOX is just a no-go. Plus waiting until we get a nice new ESC on the market that competes with OG FOCBOX and seeing how big it is, would be really nice.
Of course I’m fine with single 6380 most of the time but dual 6355 is real nice too.
5 Likes
You’ll struggle to get those cheap focers in there too!
3 Likes
@b264 you are using only the RipTide tunnel risers? what’s that like .5 inches? Anywhere near wheelbite?
How do you like the Arctic blue vs black 110’s?
2 Likes
It’s 30mm of riser. The Riptide tunnel risers and riser lights from Metroboard.
The Arctic Blue are better but I’m still testing their longevity. The black TB110s seem to last just shy of “forever”.
4 Likes
There is a small chance, yes
It’s my intent to build a <30.5" compact board for short runs/bar purposes in the very near future. Planning to use a two-piece 12S-14S 1P 40T pack depending on what ESC’s become available, a 29"-30.5" Powell Peralta deck, 74A 110’s or possibly 5" pnummies, trucks machined in house, and of course, a front binding.
If you’d be willing to sell me an enclosure, I presume it would be quite helpful. TBH, I’d like to be able to ride the Blue One… Wasn’t really thinking of that as I drove past STL with nothing else to do unfortunately…
3 Likes
Do you know what size bearings TB 6380 motor uses?
1 Like
It uses two 6800 and one 6900 bearing.
3 Likes