The Blue One | 12S LiFePO4 | 170kv TB 6380 | Caliber 2 & BN184 | 30.43" Powell-Peralta | TB110 | FOCBOX [Serious]

@b264 what handle did you use? I’m interested in getting a similar deck. In contact with someone who is selling a decently used Powell deck for $15 cc0c23d482f14c8091f73bfb047cc0d6

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It’s this handle

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/essentra-access-solutions/18457/RPC2479-ND/7688896

and this foam to wrap it (10mm ID 20mm OD)

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Had to do a little work on the old girl. The loop key mount pushed in, I’d since started using a new technique which is better than this one. So she got a new enclosure and a little external heat wick for the extremely rare times when the OG FOCBOX would throttle due to overheated FETs.

The FOCBOX is still the original one. The lights are still four LEDs in series with 2500 ohms resistance also in series, run directly from the battery.

The OG FOCBOX and the TB6380 motor are really hard to beat. I’ve used a number of different motors and for single drive, nothing can really touch the TB6380. It feels like it has so much copper in it, compared to other motors. Of course that’s being compared to various 6374s so maybe I should find some other 6380 to compare it to.

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Is that plate at the end of the motor to seal it against water? How’d you mount that, drill screw holes in the can?

Also, how is the new loop-key mounting method different? Looks the same to me.

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The motor is pinned against slippage as per

So it’s just a dust cover and it holds the pin inside the shaft and rotor.

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The loop key is mounted with only epoxy, no fishpaper, and more importantly the male end sticks outside of the enclosure by about 4 - 5mm instead of being flush-mounted. Flush mounted didn’t leave enough epoxy on the top side and it pushed in, breaking the epoxy, after about 500 insertion cycles

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Out of all build threads, this is the one I keep coming back to again and again. I love the simplicity and utility of this elegant little deck.

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It looks like a monster truck and he is mental for riding it. It does bloody 30mph and gets there in a split second. Brian is not well.

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I love @b264 doing build threads, I’d kill to see you do one on that sender deck with the 10s10p

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Super sweet build.

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A few Qs:
How would you do the enclosure I’d you had to do it again from scratch?
Which riser-lights did you use?
What kind of conformal coating product did you use? Aren’t you worried about heat?

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Considering he has like 3 boards with the same enclosure I think he’s found what he likes short of having a fiberglass version.
It’s not a bad enclosure. Think he has a few left available.
Or maybe I got the last one.

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Sweet! I am about to build 2 pennyboards with predator/ownboard hubs and this looks like the ideal enclose. Any chance you have one or two unused ones? Or where did you guys get these?

There are two @Sender decks with 10S10P

The_Evil_Laugh

This is one of them, the other is under construction

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It’s an old metroboard enclosure case with a custom bracket clamp. It broke and I already replaced it once with the identical new thing :smiley: I’d do it the exact same way again.

They are metroboard riser lights (2W, white&red variation) I bought directly from Ilan.

MG Chemicals #419D on all the electronics and small wire junctions and MG Chemicals #4223 on the loop key and phase wires

I size the wire such that it should be okay (green column Conductor Current Ratings [SRO]) but the conformal coating is NEVER the only insulation. The best joints imho are soldered, then covered with sealant (often MG 419D or MG 4223) then before the sealant dries, they are heatshrinked, then sealed again over that. The solder connections I also try to make skinny (skinnier than the wire insulation) and no sharp spots or I file off the sharp spots before sealing. I don’t want vibrations causing the sharp point to wear through the insulation and touch something else.

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I do have a very small number of extra ones but I’ll have to give priority to others who’ve expressed interest prior. The number is very small.

Out of all my boards, this is the one I keep stepping on the most often :smiley:

I highly suggest this type of board, in combination with some sort of long-range polyurethane-wheeled electric longboard.

And never think single-drive is weak. Single drive kicks ass a lot of times. Just put the motor on the rear heelside.

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Yeah, if @BigBen made some sort of super-tall and super-short enclosure, especially boltless like this using a strap instead, it would be super awesome. Able to hold 50 cells stood up on their end and two controllers and a BMS and buck converter.

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If you’ve got a plastic version, it wouldn’t be easy for me to make a mould from that?

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Yes, but I’d want a tad more room for dual drive if needed. This one is great for single drive but there is absolutely NOT room for a battery, two FOCBOXes, a BMS, a buck converter, and a loopkey. There IS room for a battery, one FOCBOX, a BMS, a buck converter, and a loopkey. But adding that second FOCBOX is just a no-go. Plus waiting until we get a nice new ESC on the market that competes with OG FOCBOX and seeing how big it is, would be really nice.

Of course I’m fine with single 6380 most of the time but dual 6355 is real nice too.

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