I don’t think anybody is arguing that about Alberta.
Legend 
Are those packs stagger stacked or straight stacked?
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Maybe read this thread and other battery building threads and look at some good examples of batteries. There is info on current capacity floating around. 200Amps is lots.
I don’t think this type of series connection is advisable.
Good luck.
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CUSTOMER??? what the fuck this should be illegal
Absolutely not.
You should not use nickel for series connections unless it’s SUUUUPER wide (like using .15x25mm strip across a whole 100+ mm long p-group.)
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ah ok gotcha will go silicone but gonna have to check how many awg i got
thanks a lot
Yep! Some poor sod has purchased that
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Correct, but in esk8 I challenge anyone to draw 200A battery current for any period of time. There is reason to be cautious and over engineer a battery for sure - its something I advocate for myself. The truth of the matter is you can look at logs and see 80wh/mile averaged consumption and 15A average battery current. I think we can go over the top in here sometimes.
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I whole heartedly agree with this. I have been able to pull 220 battery amps on a 4wd going up the steepest hill I can find around my place. But even then it was for a fraction of a second. Incredibly hard to sustain current over 60amps for more then a few seconds. Even on AT. Unless you are running like 10" or 11" tires
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I generally shoot to build my batteries with the safe continuous current limits of the cells in mind. So a 4p p42A, I would aim to make every part of it able to handle 120A. There is always going to be a weak link, and its not always obvious where that’s going to be. But as long as we are overbuilding and not underbuilding, then we should have plenty of headroom in this application due to the relatively low average current.
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I agree. The bigger concern can often just be efficiency.
The motors, ESC, and pack can survive bursts at very high current levels but the voltage drops and power losses could be significant if the battery welds, method of connecting the cells together, and the wiring, connectors, and other components aren’t size for the higher current levels.
But, as you mentioned, it is easy to over-engineer a pack.
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Do you like the DR boards with your builds? Do you have more picture of this build with them by chance? Thanks:)
I was doing two 6s packs charged in parallel, with loop key to disconnect them. One day in a moment of brain fade I plugged the loop key in while it was still connected to the charger. Instantly the board started to smoke and the loop key had welded itself in. I was freaking the hell out. Was about the run the board outside and watch it burn down. Luckily the balance wires fused out and it didn’t burn down. It aslo killed the charger. Now I have a fused loop key and fused balance wires, just in case I do dumb things again.
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Ouch that sucks. My charging harness plugs into the loop key port, but because I had to add an extra loop key I am now still at risk of such fate. Fingers crossed I don’t do dumb shit… i probably will…
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Do we have any good suppliers for nickel sheet here in the US with semi-reasonable prices? I’ve got wholesale suppliers for plate but I haven’t checked with them for battery-pack thicknesses, and they’ve got minimums.
I’m almost out of the roll I’ve had forever, haven’t had to buy any in over 10 years.
If nobody domestic, who do you guys recommend for wide stuff otherwise? Wider the better for me (assuming cost is equal), I can shear it. Thanks all!
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I actually did order some to play with, but I’d like to find some more 200-400mm wide stock. I use this stuff for more than just battery packs, which is why I had a roll in the first place, also why I’m out lol.
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Curious what else you use it for?
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