Where can i find this thread
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Damn eu/uk only. Oh well
These work well and for all kinds of projects as well. Love these Tweezzers!
Hi all
After reading a lot around here, Iām building my first battery. Itās a12s6p with reclaimed Samsung 30Ts and would like for the Gurus in here to evaluate my first try.
So far, I have glued and insulated my P packs together and have spot welded everything with 0.2 nickel tabs that I made.
I have prepared 8 gage wires for main positive and negative lines connected to an XT90s and 12 gage wires for the series connections.
So, do you see any explosion ready to happen here, or do I move forward as planned?
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Looks good so far, but 8awg seems a little hectic. 10awg is generally PLENTY for esk8 purposes
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Since they appear to be bare cells, Iād definitely like to see some extra insulation attention given to the positive-end shoulder, where thereās a gap between the fishpaper ring and the fishpaper wrap. It would be a Very Bad ThingTM to have one of those nickel tabs make contact with the exposed metal there, say from an accidental impact or inadvertent pack flex.
Other than that, looks really clean.
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They are actually individually shrink wraped with clear plastic wrap. They came like that from Nkon.
So do I need to remake my positive and negative wires with 10awg, or stick with my 8awg overkills?
It was a real pain soldering those to the XT90sā:joy:
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I use the dots from the middle of the fishpaper rings for this. A small strip of fishpaper would also do the job
Overkill is fine, as long as your solders are good, sheāll be right
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Aha, I was fooled! That makes me feel a lot better about it. A small strip of fishpaper (or the dots from inside the rings) wouldnāt be a bad idea: Extra insulation in that area wouldnāt hurt any (itās the closest point between positive and negative, so highest risk of an āenergetic eventā), but I wouldnāt say the current situation is actively dangerous if thereās shrink in there.
On the subject of extra insulation Iām thinking of putting some foam or plastic insulation in the middle (lengthwise) to separate the two halves.
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A solid idea.
At the output-end of the battery, there will be basically the entire series voltage (up to 50.4v) between the two halves right next to each other. Yet another area where āenergetic eventsā are more likely, and more likely to be extra-exciting.
I love this term 
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If your willing to pay shipping then you can borrow
I know Iām a little late to the party but a couple of things that Iāve found get me nice, shiny joints is:
- be very precise about the way you remove you iron from the solder pool
If you move it too fast and jostle the pool, imo it doesnāt become as ideal
- Having something flat w good leverage to push the wire into the solder pool.
Personally, I like to use a short-handled flat head screwdriver like this. A regular flat head is fine too but the short handle just allows for more precise movements in my experience.
Pressing on the wire in a particular spot- jist past where the silicone ends is also important. Like right here:
Last and equally important as all the above, count to 3 Mississippi before you move a muscle after the iron has been (carefully) removed.
This is my 3rd battery and I got excellent joints with all this in mind
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Gotta take propranolol before you start soldering to steady your Adderall hands
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Sadly, Iāll never be a neurosurgeon lmfao 
Thank you! Thatās good advice 
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Is it my LLT BMS or charger that isnāt charging my battery at a low current once the cells get to a higher voltage? Watching my battery charge on the LLT app shows it charging at the full current all the way up to ācell overvoltageā cutoff, then it cuts off charging, then it resumes at full current for half a second before calling down again to balance. Isnāt it supposed to charge at low current for the last few percent?