The "Ankle Wreacher" Stooge v5 SN28 Build - the big rebuild

The big rebuild

Raced at Electrify Expo San Francisco. Really proud of my performance, finished 1st overall on Saturday. Was a hell of a weekend, had an absolute blast. Few months later, and it’s still surreal.


The only way this was possible was Reggie and Mario crashing into eachother twice in the same race. Still chasing a fair win against those two :blue_heart:

Following EE San Fran, I was in 3rd place overall in Mod and Pro.
But with @poastoast’s great performance at EE NY he pushing me off the pro class overall podium

Thrilled with 3rd in mod though :tada:


After EE, there’s no races for a few months. So perfect time for some big changes.


Finally took your advice. Took me long enough.

They came with 4mm bullets, but those won’t work with my G300s, so off they come.

Out comes the hydraulic crimper

All tied up and ready for install


Rear Replacement

Crazy amount of dirt from inside the pinion

Old vs New

I took the chance to turn my extra collars 90 degrees.
ooooo so mysterious

Neat photo of the negative terminal stackup of my of my rear G300s. I took this board rebuild as an opportunity to do a deeper inspections and re-do all the kapton insulation on all the terminals

Custom backshells seem to be intact :fire:


Sensor Wires

The 6484s came with a waterproof sensor connector, and then an adaptor to the standard VESC JST. I already had the G300’s broken out to a JST, so I could’ve just used that.
Instead, I re-pinning the waterproof connector adaptor directly into the G300’s DB25 connector. One less thing to fail.

Before/after (the crimped pins then gets inserted into the connector housing)

Reassembling the connector, I had previously foolish forgotten to add F4 tape to the strain relief bracket. I think I was only saved by the high-quality wire that I used. I rectified that (the red stuff)

Looking good

Good progress. Hard to overstate how much time is involved here.


Few months ago, I made one of those little DIY CAN adaptors

image

I made it to fix a problem with Ankle Wreacher- the USB ports are comically inaccessible.

I added a branch/splice off my Megan’s CAN connector (by re-crimping it)

VHB taped it to my front box. Noice.


Cat-ermission


Front Install

There’s a reason I did this last- I need to entirely disassemble the front box. The 3D printed insert plates made it a lot easier though, so it wasn’t too bad.

Updating the sensor wires and fixing the strain relief

@HAIRYMANJACK lending a hand, attaching the pinions to the rear motors

Many, many hours later, and the motors are installed.

With the front box apart, I added these little silicon booties to the bolt heads for insulation protection. These are then taped down with a liberal amount of Kapton.

Reassembling, I added a bunch of foam to the bottom bracket holding the box to the frame. Hopefully will hold the box a little tighter and with less vibrations.

Reassembly went smoothly, so lets jump to skechier shit


I figured I’d throw in a couple extra volts as well.

The two 4s packs that I used to run (that had this top cell drained to zero volts) have been sitting in a corner for months. I figured I’d do something with em.

I ripped out the broken pouch cell, resoldered the power wires, and re-crimped with 3s balance connectors.

And by “I”, I mean I did one and @HAIRYMANJACK did the other one.

Good as new, like it’s from the factory.

Tape some foam to the top and we’re good to go

Small Problem: the BMS harness has 4s connectors, but this battery is now 3s.
Big Brain Solution: cut away the plastic so the 3s connector will fit in the 4s

imagenius

The reworked battery lead was a little short…

so had to do some heatshrink surgery

Wired up and not on fire :+1:

small note about powerup

Even though I do have AS150s, the capacitors are so large I’ll burn out the AS150’s resistor. I manually charged the G300’s capacitors with the batteries through this larger resistor, before actually connecting batt+ to esc+ directly

It heated up so fast that I actually gave my a minor burn on my fingertips. oopes.

So now I’m running 15s. Kinda cursed but I like it.


I had a bunch of trouble programming the thing. Apparently motor detection doesn’t work with the CAN adaptor? So I had to access the inconveniently located USB port.

After reprogramming, only 2 of the 4 motors spun when given power. No idea why.

Giving up at 3am, I brought the non-function board to i2s SD the following night. After some professional programming help from the man himself, @HAIRYMANJACK got my board working again. He didn’t even spend any time on track that night :blue_heart:


So, was this change worth it?

HOLLYYYYYY CRAP. yes.

This thing feels like a whole, brand spanking new board!

Most notable, the power delivery is significantly smother and more predictable. This thing isn’t jerky at all anymore, I can smoothly go from brake to coast to throttle around a corner.

Within minutes, I was doing 4 wheel slides on the BRP wides. Something I wouldn’t dare do intentially with the old motors.

That track night, I was averaging ~70Wh/mi. Significantly better then 110Wh/mi !!

@Skyart, these motors are incredible. Thanks.

This is the best new feature.

I have a functional handle.


Rogerfest

Roger rented out AVS for a day, and I really got to put this board through the paces.
Last year, my best laptime was 1:28.something
A Rogerfest, I put down a 1:15.92 :raised_hands:

Near the end of the day, had some of the best laps of the year with @HAIRYMANJACK! I’d pass him in the turns, he’d pass me on the straight. 3 laps, back to back, full tilt. Incredible, stuff of dreams.

Still, I want to do better. Check out this screenshot from my Megan. I’m already near top speed before I’m even 25% down the straight.


Considering the next two races are long track, lets fix being passed on the straight! I could increase my pinion size, but I opted to shrink my wheel spur from 78 → 67.

Pssst buy my old spurs I’m price flexible

Still haven’t pushed the board past 50, but I feel rock solid at that speed. Confident I can go faster.


I needed a mount on my motor mount plates for [redacted].
I pulled the motors off, then drilled and tapped some M3 holes. Very nice.

The sir clip of the motors were rubbing against the motor mount, so I quickly printed some spacers.

They add some nice subtle color to the board as well!


On a whim, I changed up my linkage geometry to have less stear.
I think I like it for short track, not sure how I feel about long track yet.



And that brings this thread up to date!

Totally forgot how much I’ve done to this board in the past couple months, crazy to be going back through my photos and “oh wow, yeah, I did do that. Feels way longer ago”

This board hasn’t reached it’s final form yet. I’ve got prototype 3D prints in front of me, waiting to be finalized and installed :speak_no_evil:


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