TelTail Lights (TTL) - Interactive eSkate Lighting System

Ok so with the Ubox you have to input the pwm signal into the secondary esc for the break light to output correctly when it is used with a pwm remote so this may be the issue. It is the same esc that the ttl is plugged into though so maybe not. I have to test again as I’ve had to change remotes while I repair my damaged puck - ill send it through its paces once I have it back on the bench and consistent access to an android device.

I have been borrowing an android phone to do the calibration and testing so i don’t have that info but the ubox i have is the .9 hardware (silkscreened on the pcb low voltage side) and firmware 5.2 on the UBOX V2 75v 100a dual vesc

HA! That’s funny because the first thing I do with everything i get is mess with the custom settings and generally take it apart to see how it works. I end up buying two of things often because they are designed to hinder or outright punish people for opening the case. “Warranty void if removed” is more of a challenge than a warning to me lol. Also illegal to enforce if it is a US company even if it is only in principle as the laws are being defanged

It was quite bright but I couldn’t really manipulate the ttl to get the output to go 100% (x acceleration mode) as everything was just connected in order test before closing up my enclosure.

I tried using the fob relay in this configuration for the control of the ttl. Thanks for confirming the wiring- I thought i was taking crazy pills.

IMG_7514

but I wonder if I wasn’t successful because it was being back feed or held in an on state because of the uart fsr. Ill be getting an android device in the next week and we can revisit this whole thing then.

Just to make you laugh: when I isolated the on state issue to the uart connection i had a brilliant plan - just use it in its current state and unconnected to the vesc for now toggling the power on and off to control it and not using the vesc feedback. Ez right? So i slap it all back together without the uart cable and close up the 134 enclosure screws and power the board and ttl back on… i had to change the orientation of the ttl in the enclosure and I only had access to an android device for another 15min. Reload the app and try to connect… no bluetooth signal. Opened it back up, uart back connected, confirmed i now see ttl bluetooth, close it back up, calibrate and set mode, reopen board, remove uart, re confirm everything turns on, close up enclosure, test… no leds. Forgot to connect them when I flipped the enclosure the last time after testing because i was rushing lol. Opened it all again and connected. Im going to have to make a quick connection type of cam bolt or something or some m going to wear out my imbedds

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@Ricco think I figured it out but maybe you can confirm something for me: does the ttl use a common ground breaking the positive? This is what it looks like to me but you would know best lol. As soon as I isolated the ubox outputs from the ttl outputs 100% it started acting right. The ubox outputs all break the negative and use a common positive control setup.

Unfortunately that makes the more complicated interaction of the ttl and ubox lighting I planned too complicated to pursue but i have the ttl working like a champ now. Still having some issues with the app but nothing that can’t be worked out.

I wish the ubox outputs were just dry relays, i could do so much more with them. Or if they had made them common negative. Seems like they don’t know that as I asked them about this when i got some lights from them for testing and they said that they used negative common to be compatible with off the shelf 3 wire car and motorcycle lights and sell three wire lights… ¯_(ツ)_/¯

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Your build looks sweet! Way to go getting arou d the issues you have been having with the TTL system! It looks like you solved the PWM throttle reading issue, and the remote not working.

The UPS actually breaks both the positive and the negative of the TTL power because all ESC implement their integrated power switch slightly different. Some of them disconnect the high side and some disconnect the low side. In your case, since the Ubox disconnects the GND, then maybe the high side of the UPS is damaged and stays connected. That would explain the TTL lights turning on due to the UART connection.

Very interesting and good to know! I havent heard that before.

:rofl: Ive dont this dance so many times! I think if I did another build I would want to try using push button hood latch pins. Those would make enclosure removal super easy :drooling_face:

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After about 6 years of working on the TelTail Lighting System, I have finally decided that the project has come to a conclusion for me. As promised in past discussions with various community members, now that I no longer have time to progress the project any further, I have released it as open source so that anyone who wants to continue where I left off, or just build the system for themselves.

Here are links to each of the Github repos created for this project:

I will certainly continue to provide customer support for anyone with the TTL system, and will gladly help anyone that decides to build off of my work. I just will not be restocking any of the TTL components on my webstore and will not be pursuing the implementation of any new features in the hardware or software.

I have learned a lot from this project and plan to carry that knowledge forward into new endeavors / creations. Thank you to everyone who has supported the project over the years and encouraged me to bring the TelTail Lighting System to life.

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