No sweat, just share and share alike. If you come up with something derivative please be as open with files. If someone wants to use some of my files commercially the good final versions are going up on maker world and elsewhere fully open source attribution only by request without any fees or anything.
Im about to re attack the front and back wedges to make them compatible with the new bracket design. hit a delay because of my shoulder BUT pt is helping a lot to stabilize everything. i should be back at it this week and full speed in a couple weeks with small restrictions
Heading to Portland to skate and wanted the tantrum back in rotation but it’s gonna be another 2weeks i think before it’s back together how i want
I think he has drop through versions, but te ones i used are standard ones. The width of the baseplate is slightly larger so i had to make the custom brackets to fit. You can probably just modify normal brackets but i didn’t like any of the options.
This is double sifted frit about large sugar size mixed with about 50% of the next screen up with just a little of the next size larger still in the outer inch.
Using raka 127 with the 350 non blushing hardener. After the elementary school glitter jobby i went in with a 2” acrilic brush and stippling to get good adhesion and clear up the white frosted look
Added a channel to the gasket to capture the strips and also add a through line because the new front and rear foot stops are getting a few lights integrated to add a ground effect but ime only mostly there.
Before i got the frit and gasket work done i just rode it naked around for a couple miles because i was missing it. Gonna reduce the lean stops a bit more once the deck is curved and the rains have stopped.
Took a little hike
Little brook trout in the second vid near the upper right.
Just as a comparison to the west systems: i prefer it. Pot life seemed similar but the viscosity was a bit thinner before it started to kick off. Drips and spills seem slightly less brittle but like they’re the same hardness if that makes sense. Sands well enough. Wets out cloth a little better. Cheaper by the gallon too so no complaints.
2-1 ratio is dead simple so i got some identical metered pumps and drilled the caps to fit them.
Ill report back if it does anything as i start to beat up the deck and frit. Id like to setup a better degassing setup - has the same issue when mixing and getting fine bubbles that are hard to remove but thats my process issues i think and not anything particular about the stuff.
I upped my game as far as keeping dust down and my prep to help prevent fish eyes so not sure if its better there - i do a major dusting in the work area and use a leaf blower to just kick everything up and out then run a diy filter box for an hour before starting. Then i made a cardboard cover to keep on the work while getting through the initial set.
Also started doing a quick acetone wipe before doing an iso wash - though i need a new set if rubber/butyl gloves for the acetone. Would prefer disposables but i think another set of the yellow cleaning gloves are in my future
Ya, thick nitrile gets you like 3 seconds before it’s through. Butyl rubber seems to hold up well but a lot of cheap yellow gloves for cleaning are not labeled - some are butyl some are not and are latex or nitrile. Had one pair from a dollar store that lasted quite a while and I just trashed them because they were getting gross - then the replacement fell apart in seconds Learned the package has to say rubber or it’s not. Usually only 3-4$ a pair and reusable to an extent.
Have 4p regrets lol, clearances are too tight lol. Whenever i change anything on this board it’s like super Tetris. 18s3p with a 3p top box extender for group rides looks as good as the neighbors grass - so much greener.
Didn’t get a pic but the brass inserts in the carbon fiber bracket but they have a flaw i didn’t think about. I should have gotten some good press nuts or deep hex nuts and welded a little flange on them and inserted them from the other side of the mold. Or inserted the brass ones from the opposite side. Because the brass inserts rely on the wide knurled edges for retention and have a slightly tapered shape - they can pull out if over torqued and also the clamping force at the bracket point of attachment…
So im nutting them but i only have about 7mm of clearance from the bracket inside edge to the top of the esc. After a washer and nut i just lost 4.5mm. Glad ive got nice sharp files for the extra bolt. Re did the bms and esc stack to shrink it up another mm.
I see a major rebuild of the battery in the future - i think with all the other things I’ve done and the way this build is evolving i could go with a normal stagger stack for density and get more component space but also reducing it to 18s3p with some of the 6.5ah cells when they come to market would get me the power density i want and let me increase the ground clearance too. Future me’s dilemma.
Weather is so good i just gotta slap this gal back together and ponder the next build while riding gotta work on the white ember battery before carve anyway, and fix the sporster, and finish a deck skin, and repair a cf enclosure, and work on Jacey’s esc, and repair my charger… and make copper test welds. not to mention the honeydoo list is growing.
As soon as someone finds a way to add a few hours to the day im gonna probably just go skate more with it anyway so the list won’t be effected
I’m impressed that the epoxy impregnated CF was able to hold the brass inserts as long as they did considering the amount of leverage able to be applied
Are industrial sex bolts / Binding bolts / Sleeve nuts not strong enough?
I’d guess they could be stronger than an insert. Could always double them up on the end of the CF bracket / fork.
But washer and nut is king, and you have already made it fit.
Kinda feels like a sex bolt from the start would have been the best solution. Kinda why diy is often so expensive is the trial and error process. It’s only one that started to pull out of the 8 but i can see the writing on the wall.
Also with the way that the fibers are organized (or not) drilling it to accommodate a better lower profile solution is an option. The next set i mold i will just imbed a sex bolt flush to thread into from the correct side to handle the force. Waiting on some silicon to cure then going to put this back together take a spin.
Thanks man, it’s been a difficult build. The last 10% always feels like the hardest part. Correcting mistakes or bad assumptions. Hopefully it’ll transition to less frequent maintenance here soon . This was just too much risk to leave until later
I think it’s finally there but the best part is riding it to find out.
Maybe it’s a contamination issue but got the worst fish eyes, like amazingly bad. Looks like the moon. Wasn’t bad on the tangent but the coyote top deck is crazy bad.
Only thing i can think of is i used these 320 grit diablo sanding pads because i ran out of my 400 screens when i wet sanded and it shed grit into the surface or something. Gonna try and fill all the little craters but omg that’s the worst I’ve ever had
Edit: i messed something up but idk. Might be that the whole house is open up for the hot weather. Probably got negative air pressure in the garage space and blew all this pollen and other junk in here. Le sigh
Did you try the epoxy surfacing agent / Additive F. I am not sure just any surfactant would work.
I was told Additive F was just Xylene and Paraffin.
One trick in the surfboard factories when fill coating/ gloss coating with epoxy would be to take a small amount of properly mixed epoxy and spread it super thin and wait until it gets tacky, then mix more and apply the gloss coat over that sticky thin layer.
The Brush itself needed to be sterile and the epoxy spread nose to tail then rail to rail with super light passes where 90% of the weight of the brush is still in ones hand. Depending on temperature and the epoxy’s self levelling tendencies one could tap the underside to get it to lay flat. I used to have a vibrating sander that was specifically just for placing on the underside of the board and vibrating the whole thing and one could watch the epoxy more quickly self level trying to pop bubbles with teh brush never worked right, but hitting those areas with a heat gun would allow the bubbles to rise and pop
When one applies the final coat on top of a tacky thin ‘prep coat’ then the fisheye contamination does not seem to magnetically repel the epoxy to nearly the same degree.
A lot depends on the epoxy itself. I did not even know what a fisheye was when i was using only System 3 resins. Their clear coat or SB112. That was my favorite combo, Clear coat to seal the wood and then wet out the cloth, then a weave fill coat and after sanding coat with SB112.
The System3 Sb112 was also a ‘tie coat’ which would allow polyester gloss resin to adhere to epoxy, and there is no better gloss coat than polyester gloss resin, in terms of ability to achieve the perfect finish.
Learned the package has to say rubber or it’s not. Usually only 3-4$ a pair and reusable to an extent.
. This was just too much risk to leave until later
, then sprinkled the deck when i covered it… 