Summerboard SBX reviews, discussion, mods, deals, problems, mostly problems. Maintenance/upgrade guides.

Hi, I would be interested in replicating your caster setup. Would you be willing to share the CAD files with me?

After cooking my BMS I also cooked my stock ESC, so my board is getting an electronics rebuild now with a makerx DV4S and a 12S3P 40T pack in a pelicase

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Hi Friends,
Sorry to throw in a newb question. I’m on a mission to make my normal board ( not summerboard) as snowboard feeling as possible.

Is the summer board that much better to a normal mountainboard tuned as much as possible to feel like a snowboard? what’s the pros and cons? how’s maintenance? It feels a bit like a bit of a monopoly in an already small community which means unless very handy/ experienced, will have to rely on overpriced items.

Cheers,

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I mean maybe riding mountain board with lots of power in loose dirt/sand/slippery grass can feel close to Snowboard carving.

The Summerboard allows tricks that just aren’t possible on other brands. More work keeping the board in good working order.

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Hi Dinnye! DM me, we’ll make it happen! :muscle::grin::sunglasses:

Thank you! I will send you a DM later today :slight_smile:

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I only ride onewheels and (e-) freeboards… the way you use your edgewheels for carving, the ability to spin 360’s, ride switch and overslide trough turns effortless is a unique riding experience that other type of skateboards just don’t have… the skills you get with a summerboard translates directly to getting better at snowboarding. From my snowboarding friends I’m the only one that has a summerboard and when we go out I can go on for days without pain because I’ve trained a lot with the SBX. :grin:

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Wow!!! That’s great. Unfortunately the model is not really fit for printing in a decent orientation though. I asked him for a .step file lets see if he shares that too. Would be really cool!

I also tried Solidworks’ mesh to solid converter and that just crashed out the software :laughing:

And Fusion threw an error too in the “usable” conversion type. I can make a solid by converting each triangle into a face, but then the software runs out of computation time for many features and keeps throwing errors

edit: aaron just said print it with supports and it’s gonna be fine, accuracy / decent finish is not needed there

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Finally resurrected. Now it has a 12S3P 40T pack, and a flipsky dual vesc. I originally planned a DV4S but I decided to save that for another build.

I just need to setup the vescs and fix my vx1 potentiometer. The VX1 is going to get swapped out for a GT2E really soon, but as my main board is also broken down I don’t want to wait more before riding this thing

Also the caster is still held together by superglue. I’ll eventually get to printing a replacement from the stl.

I’ll get back on this thing tomorrow

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Hi, for the “TVS diodes blowing”, basically, it maybe due to some circuit trace shorted, some critical components in this loop failed, or some TVS diodes is a fake component. Maybe you can get help for some hadware repair and debug services, Keep discussing.

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Can someone tell me how to bypass the bms v1 sbx so I can use the board?

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Disclaimer: I’m not a professional, and if you choose to follow these instructions, I will not be held responsible for your actions. Please be safe, especially when handling electrical wires and batteries.


My Summerboard Battery Fix

I’m based in the UK :uk:, so I already have zero support when it comes to the Summerboard. When I first got the board, I had an issue where it would turn on once, then the light would go off and only come back on when the charger was plugged in. Long story short, there was no way for me to ship the battery out to be flashed, so I ended up buying a replacement from Voltes.

Since I don’t always have time to board, it was stored away for a few months. The same thing happened again—the battery was dead :skull:.

I was offered a refresh kit, but unfortunately, I wasn’t financially ready to spend more money. So, I looked for an alternative. I’m a bit surprised there aren’t many posts about fixes or repairs.

I did a bit of research, and the esk8 forum was useful, but it mostly focused on heavily modifying the board, which is great but not the route I was ready to take. I just wanted the board to work.

I saw a couple of people doing a bypass on the V1 battery, which got me wondering if I could do the same. The results? I did it! I ripped out the circuits inside the battery and wired the existing battery directly to the connection, similar to the Lipo battery mod image that should be floating around.

Before making the modification, I used a multimeter on the gold pins and confirmed 22.8V on both sides, so I knew the battery was fine.

Results: I don’t have a power switch nor the LED working, but I’m fine with this. The next thing I will do is add a voltmeter and temperature sensor and see how it goes.


Remember, proceed at your own risk, and ensure you understand the potential dangers involved.

Stay safe!

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Was your battery secured in place? I noticed the battery bouncing around not seeing any glue used to hold it in place. I added dense foam bumpers and some hot glue to hold it better.

I think since you have two 6S packs you could try this for some added safety:

You still need a balance charging BMS.