How many times did you have to flash before you got sensors to work? I’m doing my 7th flash now
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Very flashy 
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Huh then I’m not sure. Mine only took 3 or so before it started behaving again.
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New Ubox installed. Now only one side will detect. Ran detection twelve times. Am I really gonna have to rip the Ubox out of the cyboard 
PSA: if you plan on buying a Ubox make sure to buy three of them so you have one that works.
On the 2nd Ubox I switched the sides the motors were connected to and the issue stays. The issue is the ESC for both of the uboxes.
Please test my replacements before you send them to me, thanks.
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I did it. It worked perfectly.
So what’s that, a 66.66% failiure rate? I recommend adding an option to have your u-box tested before it leaves the factory, I pay $50 extra for that.
Thoughts?
Sounds more like VESC fw issues than Ubox specific stuff, @Halbj613 was having really similar problems with his hall sensors on Mk5 VESCs. Hall sensors are the easiest thing in the world to make work, the traces either go from your sensors to STM32 (Excluding some pull down resistors) or it doesnt. I find it incredibly hard to believe Spintend would drop the ball on nothing but hall sensor layout.
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Every piece of evidence and troubleshooting I’ve done points to this being an issue with the uboxes sensors.
A stormcore worked perfectly, the third U-Box worked perfectly
I don’t think this is the customer experience Spintend intended. I feel I did enough troubleshooting to warrant replacements.
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Our friend @deadpirate was having trouble with just one side of his uBox recently. Not sure if he ever got it working on both sides.
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Feels to me like the customer is the one doing the QC. And that’s fine, for me who buys three at a time. I did the QC I found the issues, this is the part where I send them back and get a new ones imo
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If you’re willing to try one more thing, try SWD programming the non-working uboxes with the working uboxes.
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I don’t have the tools necessary for that, I rather send them back.
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You only need 2x VESC and a JST cable, but I totally understand.
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Yeah, I’m sure I could do it, but I have like four different boards I can ride. I’d be more willing to if I didn’t get this third one to work.
make sure nnothing is connected to the UART port during FW update or configuration.
If so, canbus will not be detected.
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I had similar issues with 2 of my units as well dude. One of em the sensors wouldn’t detect on one side, and the other unit one of the sides went completely out and CAN wasn’t working. Did many flashes and SWD as well didn’t fix it so I sent both back for repair. Unfortunately I paid $50 in shipping but @AmySpintend was amazing with communication and troubleshooting. It’s annoying but atleast customer service is good =/
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What happened with them? How much did it cost to fix/replace?
From my understanding it cost nothing but the $50 shipping
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to be frank, we don’t want to post this feature, because it will make people feel more confused even we made instruction, and it also sacriface the horn and light feature, only a braking light .
if your ubox is TypeC version, it has brake signal from ppm
you can try it in this way:
if you’re using uni1 remote, firstly debinding the internal receiver.
(2) prepare the external receiver with ppm cable ((make sure the receiver pin is in PPM A side, refer to picture)
(3) set binding status in remote
(4)connect external receiver to either side of the ESC ppm connector
(5) binding the external receiver with remote
(6)assign the ppm to escA
(5)connect your brake light in 12v light port (refer to picture explanation)
You can also refer to the video instruction, make sure your step is correctly following the video. thanks!
if you are using other remote, the same
- No need to debinding, if you don’t use the internal receiver before
- connect the receiver to ppm a
- follow above rest operation.
you will miss: no remote control horn function, but still can connect light, brake light by remote.
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