slight jerk after letting off throttle - 60D+

got my stormcore 60D+ running without sensors, think im on VSS, what settings am i looking to change to smooth out the boards throttle? The start-off without sensors is fine - but this doesn’t feel 100% right.

I know ramping time is to fix the delayed start, but when im going and let off the throttle, the board feels like it wants to slow down - nothing crazy but its not smooth - noticed during testing; i forgot about this and got jerked forward a little bit when i let off after getting some speed.

Hoyt puck is 100% not the issue, been fine from the start with the epoxied solder joints

Also noticed motor temp in the tracking app was showing -90C. Should i disable motor temps?

Any other settings I should definitely change from stock? Been months since ive played around with the vesctool - got it perfect on my lacroix and left it alone

Thanks alot for everyones help so far with getting me to this point




1 Like

Try raising the negative ramping time, it’ll slow down the transition from throttle to zero. Chances are the actual slowdown is caused by drivetrain drag, which there’s not much you can do about.

4 Likes

Check your belt tension. Could be too tight

3 Likes

That was one of the settings i wanted to first modify, but i would have actually thought to lower the negative instead of raising.

Hmm thought so since i remember feeling this similar effect on the stock controller.

I did yank the belt tension tight before hand as i knew it would need it for the power

yea i usually experience some slippage on this setup so i did yank it as tight as could be

1 Like

Ya, try at hand tight to begin and adjust as needed.

Nope you want to increase the time it takes to transition down to smooth it out, I get pretty bad jerk on my chain drive so I raised mine to around .8s which helped a bit. It’s worth noting that it will not affect braking, only return to neutral.

3 Likes

Belt tension is fine where its at. I upped neg ramping to about 0.5-0.6 and it felt better, was doing some laps around the block; the board was feeling great, then i got launched going like 40km/h. Super mad at myself for barely wearing any gear…almost happened again as i was limping my way home

Upped the negative ramping to 0.8, and the positive to 0.6 and the feeling is still there, super dangerous.

trying to pinpoint it I did a moderate acceleration and instead of staying on the throttle slightly, i let off which is where the board decides to ramp down the speed by a lot, enough to send you flying forward at even lower speeds. If i stay on the throttle, its smooth; which is where i quickly gained confidence…

Almost feels like it ramps down for a moment then goes up, then down, then up, a jittery feeling after letting off the throttle.

so far all i found online is to “Reduce braking current or disable regen by throttle?”

2 Likes

board is completely unpredictable. I tried to replicate what happened on a bench, even when all these settings below were changed its still unpredictable when riding. I go out to test it, slowly increasing speed, it seems to happen as soon as I ask for speed, although I did have it happen at lower speeds.

Had the worst one yet while riding, its like someone slammed on the brakes for me for a quick millisecond, definitely some other weird shit going on.
some of these settings seemed like it worked well on the bench, until it happens…

-Turned on traction control
-raised deadband from 6% to 9%
-Lower throttle expo and brake to -10%
-ramping time raised to 0.8 sec

Do i switch to HFI?

1 Like

This looks super dangerous, and isn’t normal. I would reinstall firmware and start from scratch. Your wheels shouldn’t stop on their own like that.

6 Likes

That second video is weeeird, yeah agreed looks dangerous

1 Like

Redid everything, seems smooth on the bench. was playing with the throttle for over 10 minutes, but it happened once which i recorded Streamable Video - this is basically what is happening for a brief second while im riding

Just went to ride and had the board hard brake without me even touching the remote, im done riding this thing with the motors that are on it.

I’m always hearing weird clicks when on the throttle - Streamable Video

This is basically what is happening - Brake comes on hard completely randomly - #4 by Stefan - ESK8 Electronics - Electric Skateboard Builders Forum | Learn How to Build your own E-board

What would be the best way to check my remote connection?
Im doing the same throttle flicks on this PPM setup screen; is it normal for it to go negative like this? Streamable Video

I have a set of new 6384 motors im going to do the same tests with tomorrow to see if i can get it to happen again

Im leaning more toward a motor problem since my hoyt remote is from my lacroix board which i never had an issue with… also,these 6374 motors wires are definitely not 12awg, its the smaller wires all the china boards seem to have

Update - tried with the 6384 and its smoother but i cant believe it still happens… is this a remote issue? it worked fine for over a year on my lacroix…is it the ESC?

Leaves me to believe its a remote issue. Only thing ive done to the receiver itself prior to it working great for 1year+, was i extended the cables by a bit so i can route it thru my enclosure. My solder joints are perfect and the remote runs smooth.

1 Like

Have you calibrated the throttle? I had a similar issue when my BKB remote wanted to brake when the throttle was neutral. I had to adjust so that the braking didn’t kick in until I actually pulled back the throttle.

However, I’m not sure if this is relevant with your Puck, or if they can even be calibrated in the same way. Good luck man, weird issue.

2 Likes

Agree ppm calibration looks likely here.

@Crate I would redo the “setup input” wizard and set the dead band to 15%. I would also set it to “current” instead of “no reverse with brake”. Make sure you apply the settings when you do the calibration. You should see the meter go from 0 to 100 for ppm readings before you complete it.

5 Likes

Yes this is what i was doing, the remote read perfect which is no surprise as its been great since i had it for 1+ year

I think i may have got it. While watching Lee Wright’s vesc tutorial - when updating the firmware I noticed there was a ALL button, to apply to the CAN vesc. I think I may have only updated the single vesc with the upload button that was beside it.

Say this was the case, with one being on 5.2 and the other being 5.3; how did the esc not get bricked? or is this just a non-issue?
When i updated the firmware on both, the upload took very long, about 10 minutes - versus before it was about a minute to complete.

Both sets of motors are now working perfect, with the 6374s actually feeling much smoother- similar to the flipsky 6384 motors(maybe its in my head but my brother noticed the same)

Going to do more bench testing before i go out riding, but i just shut everything off to take a break as i couldn’t get the braking issue to trigger at all.

3 Likes

Issues like this can also rarely be a phase wire issue or more likely battery/bms (if using non-bypass) issue. Make sure all series joints & the power mains are solid solder joints.

Sorry if this has been discussed earlier up in the thread, did not have time to read entirely. Just know I had this same issue & went down a giant debugging rabbit hole only to find one p-group had a fucked connection & the big fucking bestech BMS that nobody uses anymore (for good reason) also had a shoddy connection.

The braking/jerking after you let off the throttle issue is definitely one of the shittier things to try to fix in esk8. & this is why I always wear full safety gear when trying to fix any issues like this. Hope you didn’t get banged up too badly & things heal soon. Tegaderm & neosporin/silvadene are the GOAT for quickly healing road rash.

3 Likes

Wish it was the battery as thats something i could easily checkout and fix, but the battery pack is made immaculate and uses an LLT bms (discharge bypass).

Thought it was from letting off the throttle but the videos i posted show it happening whenever

Pulled my neck and shredded my elbow, shaking my head for an hour after because i have full fox torso and leatt knee pads, got too excited not thinking about potential dangers that could have been there.

Got the wheels back on and everything runs great, pretty nervous to ride it again but can’t today as the roads are wet. Going to do some more bench test inside for like an hour in the meantime

Did my first 20-minute ride, all was smooth. the board really punchy. I was only able hit 44km/h as my heart was in my throat most of the ride, riding with my fists covering my chest prepared to get knocked off, and its dark and cold.

I set 45 instead of 50 for the battery amps for my last couple of VESC setups, what does this setting do exactly?

Also redid my motor’s bullet connectors for good measure.

2 Likes

With more battery amps you’ll notice a bit more punchiness at higher speeds. Doesn’t affect range much unless you ride real hard