I bet the expensive part here is in the motor pinion, not in the sprocket. Sprockets can be laser or water jet cut out of the right thickness material and then you have to sand the edges a bit on an angle to make the teeth more chain friendly. That’s a 5mn job. I’d expect the sprocket to be around $10-30 each in small batches.
Pinion is more complex to produce, and I’d expect that to be quite expensive indeed, but it should be available already as is from AliExpress or similar. Or is that a crazily exotic chain type that no one in the world uses? Or do you have exotic requirements in terms of bore that make the available ones not compatible at all?
Appropos of nothing I have had this link in my list forever.
I have to admit I’m kind of turned on by the idea of a dual-chain sprocket
I CNC’d my sprockets out of Delrin, they work great.
Originally I started with a steel drive sprocket and wore it out way too quickly. Once I switched to Delrin, a couple of years on - I’m almost due for a new set. If I had dual Delrin I bet it would go forever.
Is it really necessary though? I feel like that’d only add extra drivetrain resistance and weight since the strength of the chain isn’t really a limiting factor. Even the thin #25H (04C in ISO) chain has a tensile strength of over 1200lb, which seems overkill even for a single drive.
H25 is definitly not enought for 3,5kW motor. Check pictures on Top of this article. The same result You will have if You will do calculation. Statis and dinamic strength are two different factors. Also people who are using H25 can let You know.
You are right. 219chain is used mainly in go cart also I saw it on some electric bikes. Main issues is pinion. Sure the shape can be more simple then on my picture. But finally : if You use the same diameter for B06 sprocket and 219 sprocket + the same center distance of both , as Iam remember correctly on my old calculation You will save around 8% of weight for 8 or 10 time higher price.If Iam wrong and You will save 20% of weight, it is still not affordable. Believe me, my target was to sell some parts and I really invest huge amount of hours to check it.
I mean I’ve been using #25H for over a year now, no problems even with 3.5kW motors. The charts above don’t have the H version, which uses thicker links and are nearly twice as strong as regular #25. You get to use way higher gear ratios with the smaller chain, I’ve seen single reductions as high as 1:7.
That is a point that You Used thicker version. With high gear ration. Also Your weight and riding style is very important. I know person which ride 06B and must replace it after 6 months.
You were quoting the stronger chain with the H designation, so I’m not sure what you’re getting at when you’re talking about a thicker version than that.
Sorry my mistake. I was thinking that is something additional. H25 is equal to 05B and H35 is equal to 06B. I was thinking that You are talking about some thicker H25 with strength same as 06B. Iam not familiar with USA standards:( Use chain according Your needs and setup. I need robust design transition system for Mountainboard , and Iam heavy so for me it is clear. When I made calculations for 3,5kW motor 25H was slighli bellow safety line.Mean not enought. So Yes, for somebody it can work perfect. Anyway on university in this case, we chose from safety reasons each time mere robust solution. So definitely it is not overkill for most riders of Mountainboard with 3,5kW motors ore more
Actually they should be not too tight nor too loose, either of those can cause issues. In my experience it is better to have it on the tighter side but not too tight. Its pretty easy to set up though and easy to maintain. Best thing about chains, I find them to be bullet proof and that’s why we are releasing a chain drive!
Yeah, I worked through it with Jens and concluded my chains were set up correctly. Either I’ve been terribly unlucky or you’ve been incredibly lucky.
The right track on chain drive development, as far as I’m concerned, is what @Andy87 is doing with his double-stage drive. It keeps all the moving parts as far out of the way as possible.
incredibly heavy though, so much steel. Its exactly what we didn’t want for these drives. I take it off roading isn’t really your thing? A chain drive that’s as light as possible is there to compete with belt drives in the off road scene. Of course it will never be as light as belts, but its orders of magnitude stronger and more reliable. Mud kills belt drives very quickly, you can go through several belts in one session but if you want that ease of maintaining and something that’s a lot stronger for not too much of a weight penalty then the chain drive is a good choice.
Hard to say but chain drives are old tech, its been done before and quite a few people ride them in the UK. Im not the only person testing our chain drives.
