My pleasure! Gotta make that bread! 
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Awesome stuff !
Managed to fit a 13s9p of molicels in mine but was very tight fit with a Bluetooth BMS
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Yeah boyee. Can’t wait to see your build progress. Looking good so far!
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Holy fucking bananas, batman. Thats a lot of go-juice!
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Geez what kinda range with 8" do you see with that ?
Slowly but surely, starting to piece it together and another list of things I want to buy showed up. 
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That’s my build.
13s9p is really not that hard to fit because you can stack the VESC (here a Spintend which is not a small one btw) and the BMS.
Don’t pay attention to the duck tape and mess in the wires, it was during the test phase 
Power is definitly here, 2x 63105 motors for a total of 9000W+ and more than 250A continuous and almost 400A burst from the battery. Currently setup at 2x100A battery and 100A/motor. Definitly more room to play with, especially at this time of the year (cold as fuck in France atm).
Top speed is quite average (around 50km/h) but thanks to the chain drive and ratio, I have plenty of torque to play with uphill.
It looks overpowered but it allows me to push hard if I want without any SAG (i’m far from the maximum battery discharge capacity) or high temperature from neither the VESC nor the motors.
All combined I can cruise for hours (maybe 80km at 30km/h) thanks to the 1700wh or shred it (what I don’t do because I need to master the beast first ) without any fears for the electronic.
Thanks to the french electronic master @Booya for his expertise and awesome work.
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Lol didn’t know you had a profile here mate, sometimes I dream all the board I build are mine
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I’m currently waiting for me Davega, so I can’t help but advise you to take one aswell 
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I use the METR app on my phone but the DAVEga is a spectacular unit. There are some remotes that will have the same data on a smaller screen if that’s what you prefer
For aluminum you can anodize it but a hard anodization is very hard to achieve in a home setup. If you have access you can also powder coat the components but you will need to keep contact faces clean (threads, bores, belt contact surface) during that process
Look into glass frit, it’s basically just shards of glass in a layer of resin (spar urethane or epoxy), people like @sender are spectacular at doing it so look at his work for inspiration
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People have been using lipos in parallel, charge and discharge, as long as you treat it like one big cumulated pack its the same.
It’s the exact same thing
The fact they are different capacities is fine, but the c rating of the cells is very different…the c rating of a P42A is 11.25 while the 50E is only 1.96 so per unit capacity you can’t work the 50E as hard
In the way that a chain is only as strong as the weakest link, the c rating of a parallel group is only as high as it’s weakest cell
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Do you mean it works only if the cell with the hightest discharge rating is the one with the hightest capacity ?
And in this case it’s the opposite so it’s bad ?
No it has nothing to do with capacity, the c rating of the battery is independent of the actual capacity. It’s like how the density of an object is independent of the mass of the object even though it defines it
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Is there any way to just spray paint the parts? The wheel pulleys are clear anodized aluminum, the motor pulley is carbon steel I think? And the M4 bolts and grubs are probably alloy steel?
Not to sure of anyone in my town that does anodizing, cerakoting, etc.
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Spray paint chips off really easily, you can do it but the finish will be mediocre and it will get worse with time
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Does not using a speed ring hurt performance on these types of build or are they not necessary? Anyone know?
Maybe @b264 knows?
The washer helps the bearings have clearance and make sure they aren’t pinched. You can also get or make 0.2mm thick ones instead of 1.0mm thick ones. I’d highly recommend at least something. You don’t have to use them. Got a photo of the hanger end?
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