What happens if you fall, say 10 meters or so away from your board, and the battery is in the back pack?
@malJohann solved that issue in his battery in a back-pack build:
But as for me: well, I’m using bindings, so it’s nearly impossible for the backpack to get away from the board
I have no experience of having the battery in the back pack kind of thing, so I can’t really tell whether it is more dangerous or not than having it on the board. My guess would be, yes, it is, especially when you wanna jump too; @rich can tell for sure.
Only thing I know is that I fell on (almost) every ride when I started with my E-MTB. However, that’s how I started esk8 any way.
Yeah, that’s one of the reasons I’ll go with NESE. Should protect the battery somewhat. Also easy to repair if something does happen.
> Inb4 starts another round of California scale wildfires
You’ll also struggle to find bearings that would work with bergs and fit any mountainboard trucks.
MBS bindings are great if you can find them
AND they are in stock if you are state side: https://www.mbs.com/parts/14051-mbs-f5-bindings-1-pair
Re Trucks I would recommended MBS for stablity. Springs are more “lively” but that comes paired with instablity. I did do a build on mini vertigo, its fun to run around urban street but def not for serious offroading. More shameless plug, mini vertigo build: https://electric-skateboard.builders/t/trampa-travel-board/46346
Re Deck Trampa deck hurts my feet… Haero would IMHO be the top of the pick. Kaly has a nice deck too, or get some wings to help build some concave on the trampa deck. Last plug I promise: BIG FOOT🦶 HAERO
Mbs f5, 8" if you want to take on the woods, fivestars if you want to try out 9" ever, Matrix 2s forever.
170 kv with 4.9 ratio is fine, I recall you’re light right? I’m running 190 kv on that ratio with 10s and it does great on everything except uphill stand stills.
It’s like I’m on a snowboard going down a mountain of marshmallows
Yes, add a capacitor and use a loopkey and/or run 10S max on 60V equipment (not 12S), 17S max on 100V equipment (not 20S) et cetera for the most confidence
The added capacitor should go physically close to the ESC
Both of those can help mitigate problems from high power conductor inductance / long battery cables.
@rusins could you help me understand why batteries in the backpack would allow for better jumping and less weight? Seems to me, whether on the board or on your back, the weight is still there. In my mind, having it at a lower point, would lower your center of gravity, thus making the ride more stable. I’ve not yet built a mountain board so I’m here to learn with ya.
IMO gear drive is the best what you can use on a mountainboard.
If you don’t have huge backlash you are save. The only important rule is to never ever brake or accelerate while landing. Especially unintented full brake is very bad. I always stop accelerating before take-off and in best case lift the thumb until I landed. This way you can’t touch the throttle on impact (this happened to me in the beginning).
As @Saturn_Corp mentioned the camber is only there when unweighted. Here some evidence:
That still happens to me on almost every ride
I don’t fall because of situations like in the beginning but over the time you progress and do more stupid stuff which leads to falls or losing balance. Riding offroad especially on askew slopes (sideways) is very tricky in the beginning.
I also recommend MatrixII and F5.
I am not sure about the backpack, I wanted to make one, too but changed my mind. I think it is much better and easier to have swappable batterys on the deck instead. For riding you can go with the 12s6p and for jumping with something lighter and more slim. The deck might feel better without battery but heavy weight on the back is not the best for jumping for keeping balance.
So please someone design a smart solution for easy swappable packs so I can copy it for my build
I highly recommend taking some time to watch MBS’s tech talk series.
Heres a video about the truck
Granted there its made by @MBS and you can obviously make the arguement that its bias, it does contain some really good info mountainboard equipment. Obviously not everything applies. Analog board puts a significantly greater emphasizes on weight then our application but again lots of good info there.
I would think about getting some 3ds hangers for jumps, I wouldn’t trust mbs and trampa is hit and miss I feel. Just ask @rich
For jumps I think 6374 or aps 6384 would be good (just battle harden them)
And if you are really aiming for light then lipo might be better. Again @rich is your man
I think I fell in this rabbit hole because my build ended up being 21kg lol (just weighed it last night and was shocked)
Love & respect for pushing the limits!
That’s right, @rusins, don’t forget to get some good protection (especially for shoulders, elbows and butt) . You’ll thank me later
You plan to pack them together in a separate box or just shrink them together?
Not sure about the back pack thing if you want to go off-roading. Especially not in combination with NESE modules. They still just plastic holders. One big crash and they could split apart and short out the hole pack.
One more thing is the main power wire hanging down from the back pack. You definitely would want to hold the slag at minimum going through rough terrain. When I ride close to trees, bushes etc. I could imagine that the plug could get unplugged because shit catches up in the wires.
The more I ride 9“ tires the more I like that I can just roll over stuff. Not the best for jumping but there is definitely a big difference which terrain you can ride through with 8“ and which with 9“.
It’s very hard to build an Allrounder because something will always be not ideal. Best really to have multiple boards
If I could build only one board I would probably go with
Hearo bro deck
Helical hear drive (1:5ish)
12s6p on the deck with easy swap for 12s1p 5Ah lipos for jump session or just range extension.
Dual 6380/84 170-190kV
Matrix2 or trampa trucks with elastomer damper
Mbs f5 bindings with heelstraps
The new 9“ „plastic“ trampa hubs where you can switch between 8 and 9“ wheels without to remove the hub and save some weight over the alu hubs too.
With trampas carver motor mounts they say you can fit up to 6364 motors but rn i’m trying 6374’s with 6.5mm hand made motor mounts… when I’ll finish them and test fit them i’ll confirm you if 6374 motors fit on the mini trampa trucks.
2x 6374 is possible with the right mounts on mini trucks. Still wouldn’t buy the mini truck anymore. Definitely not if it’s meant to be real off-road board and not only all terrain.
This. So much this.
That also means when you get home from shredding the gnar, you have another charged board waiting…
Or in my case, one that isn’t broke
After watching a few videos on trucks, I think I’ve changed my mind and will be going with Matrix 2s instead. A set of those should be about 600g lighter than Trampa Infinity trucks, and even Trampa is recommending their barrels instead of springs nowadays.
Pretty set on using MBS Rockstar hubs for weight saving, and no bigger than 8" wheels. I don’t want to ride over things as if they’re not there (The trails we’re I’ll be riding are kept up well, won’t be riding through mud or bushes)
And as for the deck – sure, the arch shape disappears when you’re standing on it, but that constant pressure should make it easier to do “mini jumps” I believe, where the wheels still touch the ground, but you’ve raised the middle of the deck up enough to get over a log or something. Flexible deck like that just seems more wieldy to me.
@rich You flexed the deck all the way to the ground in your video, and I’m about the same weight as you. Should I go for a stiffer version then?