If you use roll to start only: Simply bridge Switch pin to any GND pin (on each VESC).
If you use Power switch: Use a N ormally C losed momentary switch (NC).
On VESC A: Wire Switch Pin and GND to the power switch. The switch bridges GND to the Switch Pin. When you press the button, you brake the connection for a second.
On VESC B: only connect the Switch Pin to the power switch. Do not connect GND!
Both VESCs are hooked up to the same Battery.
Thanks for explaining, Frank!
For roll-to-start, I understand that I have to use a cable that connects the “Power switch” pin to a GND pin. And I have to do so on both VESCs, i.e. VESC A and VESC B. Correct? I assume that consequently I have to set a time interval when the board is automatically powered off in the VESC tool?
For the Power switch …, I still have to understand it better and have to leave for work now.
You can define a time in VESC-Tool, yes. After that time frame, the VESC power down.
And this will also turn off the battery if the power switch pin is connected to a GND pin?
It will send the VESC to a very deep sleep mode.
Do you perhaps have a picture how this thing looks like? Or could you be so kind to post a picture how the (i) roll-to-start option versus the (ii) power-switch option with 2 VESCs MK III looks like?
Something like this. The LED should be 5V rated.
Great, thanks a lot.
It would be fantastic if you or someone else could once be so kind to post a picture how the (i) roll-to-start option versus the (ii) power-switch option with 2 VESCs MK III looks like?
For example, it is still unclear to me how the power-switch option would be advantageous, or is it instead more or less identical, to the setup depicted below that also has a power switch (magenta arrow) although it uses 2 (old) VESCs 6 Plus instead of 2 VESCs 6 MK III (despite that it has a battery from Mboards and too many adapters, yes I know)?
If you use the VESC switch, you have roll to start and auto power off. And one less point of failure.
I was thinking about getting one of those laser thermometers to keep an eye on the temps.
Is that wood glue around the insert? If you still have a little bit of the insert slot that you used the tool on I would try to back it out with a flat head. If that doesnt work put some jb weld or epoxy on a cap head screw and let it cure fully. You should be able to get it out by backing it out by hand. I would also suggest installing the inserts by hand a cap screw and a nut between the cap head and the insert will make a world of difference.
Courtesy by Trampa visualizing the different connections (of option 1 (if I am not mistaken)). Thanks a lot!
Thank you kindly, I got the extrusion, but where did you get/what are the rollers called, can’t for the life of me think of what the name for that part actually is.
USS Enterprise
Ah my bad i forgot to mention it in the thread.
It’s a conveyor roller.
Gracias
De nada
Thanks for that, I hadn’t seen it before and now I won’t be able to unsee it…