The scratches are fine, the gap is fine too. A lot of full magnet cans have a tiny gap from tolerances. Almost impossible to make it juuust perfect and have it all fit.
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Ok cool. I figured they’d be fine but just wanted to check. Gonna wait for the loctite to cure and try them again tomorrow.
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If you want it to last wait at least 48h. Else you will get micro fissures and compromise strength and longevity.
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Yeah I know the spec sheet of loctite 680 has it at about 80-90% full strength on steel in 24 hours. I mean that’s still pretty good though considering you cant even budge it after 10 minutes.
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It may be fine, but if you put force on it before it reaches 100% it won’t ever reach 100% anymore 
so it may break prematurely
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I don’t have a BOM but i did make a thread on how i made it. Take a look
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Keep an eye on motor temps. If they get high enough it could loosen. Prolly be fine
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@PrivacyDoctor if the threads are in you can just use it as is. File down the exposed sharp edges. If you want to remove the insert and try again, red loctite a bolt into it, let it fully cure and you should be able to unscrew the insert out with the bolt.
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@Trampa Frank, could you please enlighten me on this one Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here! ?
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Thank you! This was messy, but I learned a lot about these in the process. 
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Thanks a lot! However, I still don’t get it. Could you please tell me the connection from the “power switch” pin is to which other pin on the VESC#1 (same VESC), or VESC#2, or elsewhere?
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If you use roll to start only: Simply bridge Switch pin to any GND pin (on each VESC).
If you use Power switch: Use a N ormally C losed momentary switch (NC).
On VESC A: Wire Switch Pin and GND to the power switch. The switch bridges GND to the Switch Pin. When you press the button, you brake the connection for a second.
On VESC B: only connect the Switch Pin to the power switch. Do not connect GND!
Both VESCs are hooked up to the same Battery.
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Thanks for explaining, Frank!
For roll-to-start, I understand that I have to use a cable that connects the “Power switch” pin to a GND pin. And I have to do so on both VESCs, i.e. VESC A and VESC B. Correct? I assume that consequently I have to set a time interval when the board is automatically powered off in the VESC tool?
For the Power switch …, I still have to understand it better and have to leave for work now.
You can define a time in VESC-Tool, yes. After that time frame, the VESC power down.
And this will also turn off the battery if the power switch pin is connected to a GND pin?
It will send the VESC to a very deep sleep mode.
Do you perhaps have a picture how this thing looks like? Or could you be so kind to post a picture how the (i) roll-to-start option versus the (ii) power-switch option with 2 VESCs MK III looks like?
Something like this. The LED should be 5V rated.
Great, thanks a lot.
It would be fantastic if you or someone else could once be so kind to post a picture how the (i) roll-to-start option versus the (ii) power-switch option with 2 VESCs MK III looks like?
For example, it is still unclear to me how the power-switch option would be advantageous, or is it instead more or less identical, to the setup depicted below that also has a power switch (magenta arrow) although it uses 2 (old) VESCs 6 Plus instead of 2 VESCs 6 MK III (despite that it has a battery from Mboards and too many adapters, yes I know)?
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