I’m starting my first DIY electric Skateboard build. I’ve decided to go all out and make my dream board (hopefully) to potentially prevent the first for always wanting to buy a new board.
Almost all the parts received just waiting for my second unity+, 2nd TB DD and P42A cells to come back into stock on fogstar.
So close but so far
FYI - Anyone looking to buy the Mboards XL enclosure the internal usable space actually works out to be 545mmx152x35mm (40mm with gasket).
Parts list:
Raptor 2.0 deck
2x TB DD 60KV XL
Mboards enclosure
15mm extra neoprene gasket
2x unity +
12s6p P42A battery
Smart BMS
Flipsky VX2 Pro remote
ONRA 115mm airless wheels
Torque board 6” AT wheels
Flipsky various adapter and cables
(Trying to get hold of a metroboard X battery indicator plate and E-shark suspension Bas plates)
I will probably get hold of the Metr and put some lights on once complete also!
I am new to this so any pointers or suggestions would be much appreciated!
@rusins will need to drill holes it’s annoying as I tried Boundmotor’s airless also which I have on the front of my Meepo mini 2 ER and they didn’t fit either.
I think TB kegel adapters are just made slightly thicker so you can only use their wheels unless you mod the cores.
Nice looking repurposed Raptor board! It looks so awesome. Just curious on how you got rid of the wheelbite with the pneumatic wheels. I’m also looking to convert my broken Raptor board. I’m pretty interested in how you swapped out the enclosure/battery holder for the Raptor. Great job on it!
Thanks man. I have yet to put life in it as I am waiting to get the cells to make the 12s6p battery.
With the wheel bit issue I am using TB XL Direct drive motors which are a bit wider than standard ones. This is the deck without any risers at the moment and there is clearance when it’s finished it will have 1/2 or 1” risers on it so there is absolutely no chance of that.
I do have the raptor 2 enclosure but this is too small if If you want an above average battery I have gone for a Mboards XL enclosure and will be putting a custom neoprene gasket in to act like a riser giving me about 60mm depth inside. I don’t think you can get a bigger enclosure on a raptor 2 deck as there is 5mm clearance on the wheel cut outs on all 4 corners. So any wider or longer and it will over hang into the wheel cut outs between the deck and enclosure.
The only thing that is Enertion about it is the deck all the rest is new. I have also purchased a Metr pro which will link to my LLT BMS which I will use to effectively fault report when the board has the last few bits and is complete.
Interesting, thank you for the explanation. I really like the direct drive, but wayyy to expensive for me. I’m actually trying to do a belt drive with pneumatic wheels with the Raptor deck. I’m not sure if it’ll work with the wheelbite I’m getting. I guess your trucks’ geometry is different than my TB218 trucks. It is on 1/4 inch risers already. I’m thinking of trying half inch, but I don’t think that’s enough still.
I’m using the stock 10s4p battery, so I doubt i need to swap the enclosure. But if the room is too tight, I might resort to getting the bigger enclosure. The smart bms takes up some room.
The metr pro looks so helpful. Never knew about it, I might look into it, as I have a smart bms and a unity as well. Which one are you getting?
@Dyeezy also just measured the distance between the 6” AT wheels at it’s exactly 10” so like you said either bigger risers or longer trucks with a bigger wheel base - I think that would be the best option as you will be more lower to the ground and in addition to a wider wheel base you will be more stable. Depending on where you are riding if you go for that option maybe go for DKP?
Update**:** Batteries are in. I will be wrapping these with insulation over the weekend while I wait for the spot welder.
Last items to be delivered:
Custom gasket (once battery is finished)
Unity + one week away
Metro pro (anyone know how long these take to arrive in the UK?).