RaceBro: Haero Bro, Tito Duality, 21S4P, 6395 175KV, BN straight cuts, 9x3.5s, D100S

How long of a screw do you need for those wide wide ones?


It’s M4x90 and then the nubs from the boardnamics gear drive should go right up to the nuts. It’s the longest screw my hardware store had. They were like 1.5$ per screw :laughing:

For comparison M4x80 is like 0.4$ in the same hardware store and that’s already on the expensive side


Oh shit and I just realized I’ll need to buy 10 more as I’m going 4WD. I only have 10 pieces of these :laughing:

crikey. :open_mouth:


At this point it’s mainly for OCD and asthetics as I think it would look better, plus might also take a bit of the stiffness out of the sidewalls by getting rid of the squish. And I have to print new wideners anyways to gain the axle space for the 3001 bearings.

My 6001s are gonna hate me even more though so I’ll have to get order those 3001s sometime :sweat_smile:

Nice! Very interested in how things go with those 34mm wideners. What material is it?

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It’s PETG made by esun, should be plenty durable. The 20mm widener survived me even from shitty PLA but PETG is better here

It’s only the bearings / bearing seats that I am worried about actually durability wise

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I’d purchase a set of four of these if you are inclined to make another set.


I’ll send you a PM

So first piece is printed and it fits

20mm widener (old setup)

34mm widener (new setup)

My bearings are going to hate me for this but I’ll print the other 3 as well.

The 20mm widener had much less squish then I remembered. I think around 24mm would be neutral.

So the 34mm widener is about 10mm stretch


Please be very careful, theres a lot of unsupported weight on the outside of that tire.


Yes, I need to test if it works okay. I’ll check on the bearings regularly. With the 20mm widener I didn’t have any issues other then bearing wear being a bit accelerated (not too bad to be fair), but the 34mm widener makes the bearings very offset. Definitely not ideal. I am hoping that the move to double row angular bearings and loctiteing the bearings into the hub will resolve that issue.

If it doesn’t work out, I can go down to 24mm widener for a neutral tire stance. Need to keep the widener 14 24 or 34mm length to be able to run double row angulars. 14 would be too little, 24 would work for sure, 34 needs to be tested to make sure it’s not too much.

Unfortunately I need to get the spacing right to the exact mm to have enough axle length to run the double row bearings.


Can you flip your wheels and run them inside out so the bearings are out near the axle nut instead of offset way inside?

It would cause wheelbite.

But also wouldn’t make sense. On track it’s the inner side of the tire that sees the higher load.

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True. I’m no scientist

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Some babysteps for the rebuild. Drilled the new truck mounting holes closer to the edge of the deck

And look at that ride height!!!

Axle is basically inline with standing platform. There’s gonna be a footpad on top, but even with that I should be standing less than 1cm above axle height.

Wheelbase axle to axle should be 41.5" roughly. About an inch shorter then the V5.

This is gonna be a real track weapon. Hopefully rivaling the V5s both in handling and performance.