RaceBro: Haero Bro, Tito Duality, 21S4P, 6395 175KV, BN straight cuts, 9x3.5s, D100S

So today I finally installed the angled risers:


Drilled kingpin access holes front and modified the back to accommodate the angled riser


The new max lean:

And I went for a short test ride

The 25/10 angles feel insanely good. I still have great turning and it’s super reactive. The lean is monstrous. I fell in love with the setup again.

Unfortunately the rear feels a bit too reactive with the current bushing. And I brought the wrong hex key with me so I couldn’t adjust the bushing. Also forgot to charge the board after yesterday’s ride…

So I am charging at 15A now to get out for another ride where I tighten the rear down a bit more.

I have a feeling though that I need to bump up the duro to 95A with the rear tall chubbies, a little extra tightness probably will not be enough. And I have a decent amount of preload on the bushings right now so I am pretty sure they wouldn’t be happy with much more preload especially longer term.

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Is this the new truck angles with the angled risers installed?

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Yes these are the final angles. 30-5 dewedge and 15-5 dewedge

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i’m glad that you and tuck are testing different setups on these trucks. i won’t be starting my build until winter but it’s nice getting feedback to decide how i wanna set my lacroix up

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Interesting. How does the turning radius feel with the rear truck angle being so low? I’m assuming your crazy lean angle compensates for that and provides a tight turn radius.

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Yes the lean angle compensates for it all. Getting used to the extra lean took like a mile of carving, first it felt like it didn’t want to turn but after the adjustment period I still have all the turn I need and I have more lean. Angles as low as this I think only work if you have grippy tires which allow you to lean in far. Probably the bindings also help here.

Worth noting that I am not running the stock lean stoppers on the setup, so I actually allow more lean than intended by Tito. I don’t think I would be happy with the turn with the stock lean stopper setup at these angles.

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Can’t wait to see that build also! This one is actually going to evolve quite a lot still. But I think I am getting closer and closer to the point where I want my trucks to be, at least for the Haero deck.

I’ll change the deck out for a longer Tomiboi deck when I get to upgrade to 4wd, I might need to start tweaking the trucks again at that point.

The real question though is if the extra lean angle that I allow compared to what was intended by Tito is going to make the bushings a consumable or if they will survive me.

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I recently switched my fronts from chubbys to tall barrels of a slightly higher duro (at the recommendation of Tito), I like how it feels especially at steep lean angles.

You might like how it feels too, might be worth a shot. Might also last longer then chubby’s, because the narrower diameter(chubby->barrel) will deform less

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just need the trucks, esc, and tires. probably won’t be throwing a binding on it just to keep it simple.
on the back burner until i finish the race board tho

they’re not too expensive so i’d be okay with having to change them out 2 or 3 times a year.

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I am already on barrels on the front.

I am actually going out to try 93 krank 92.5 aps chubby combo on the rear right now to see if it helps. Pretty sure 95 aps chubby would be solution but I don’t have that on hand

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Okay the 93A krank tall chubby 92.5A aps tall chubby combo feels really good on the rear. So no need to buy a set of 95A aps.

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So far any durability issues I’ve had have been with aps formula. Specifically chubbies and soft duros 84a and below. The fatcones (87a+) seem to do okay, though they are slightly divey. A bushing between fatcone and chubby might be nice for the rear (and between tall cone and tall barrel for the front).

Krank has been fine durability wise so far.

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The reason why I mentioned durability is actually that I allow the bushings extra lean that the lean stoppers would’ve were to no allow. Combine that with APS and I can see that the bushings might have issues longer term, although I took them out of the truck today and so far they look good just a little squished from the preload.

Good to hear the bushings are holding up so far. My intention on my personal build is to run 30/10 with aps and/or venom hpf bushings. With low angles you need a lot of lean. The lean stoppers are there to protect the bushings so without it the bushings need to be durable.

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Big fan of the build

This place is pretty good for strong printing but maybe it applies more to people who don’t have their own printer. They would make 4x 40mm spacers shipped to the US in CF petg for $36 or CF nylon for $72 (or Ti for $1721🤪).

And might a spintend 100v be more powerful than a D100S? They aren’t available from Spintend anymore but there was one for sale on the forum, for either the next time your D100S breaks or 4wd.

Thanks!

I would be a bit worried outsourcing this part from a printing company actually, as it’s designed with quite tight tolerances so if they don’t account for the filament shrinkage it probably won’t fit. It took me 3 tries to get the fit perfected for my filament, adjusting scaling in the slicer.

It actually holds up just fine from PLA in the 20mm version at least, but I recommend at least regular PETG if you want to get it bulletproof. Especially if you go to wider sizes. I am going to print a set of 34mm soon from PETG. That’s the largest that’s possible with 90mm screws.

Also if you want the 40mm one you gotta find a set of M4x100 screws :wink: They exist but they are quite hard to find… I talked to my usual hardware store they said they can source them but I need to buy 200 pieces hahaha

They handle like half the current compared to the D100S (which I max out already) and aren’t known for reliability either. When I go 4WD I’ll just get a second D100S. If I wanted another VESC I would need to go with tronics 250R’s which are much more expensive and much larger physically - they wouldn’t fit below the battery. Although those are very reliable and even more powerful, so they might be worth the tradeoff for someone else.

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Couldn’t resist taking some rough measurements of the lean angles hahaha

30 degree truck lean before hanger hits the deck (stock lean stopper would be 25).
Legs lean 17 degree compared to the ground. Pretty deep hahaha
And my ankle is 45 degree ish from vertical. That’s actually super nice.

Also kinda interesting how little space I have under the Haero deck at full lean :sweat_smile:

I planned to have the Tomiboi deck setup a bit lower ride height, hopefully I won’t be scraping on the ground while turning :rofl:

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Very neat annotation with the angles…cad program, I presume? I should do the same with my board, would be curious how mine compares

Looks like your ankles can😂

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uhh mines kinda can?? lol (not that it’s comfortable)
i do have the board set up for more lean now and it feels much better so thanks for those drawings

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I used Fusion 360 but most cad software should be able to do this. Add the picture as canvas then make a sketch on top :+1: I would love to see how yours compares

:joy: :joy: :joy:
This 45 degree ish angle is about the max that’s still comfortable :smiley: I can push it a bit more but my left ankle which was sprained last year starts to complain then

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