How long of a screw do you need for those wide wide ones?
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It’s M4x90 and then the nubs from the boardnamics gear drive should go right up to the nuts. It’s the longest screw my hardware store had. They were like 1.5$ per screw 
For comparison M4x80 is like 0.4$ in the same hardware store and that’s already on the expensive side
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Oh shit and I just realized I’ll need to buy 10 more as I’m going 4WD. I only have 10 pieces of these
crikey. 
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At this point it’s mainly for OCD and asthetics as I think it would look better, plus might also take a bit of the stiffness out of the sidewalls by getting rid of the squish. And I have to print new wideners anyways to gain the axle space for the 3001 bearings.
My 6001s are gonna hate me even more though so I’ll have to get order those 3001s sometime 
Nice! Very interested in how things go with those 34mm wideners. What material is it?
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It’s PETG made by esun, should be plenty durable. The 20mm widener survived me even from shitty PLA but PETG is better here
It’s only the bearings / bearing seats that I am worried about actually durability wise
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I’d purchase a set of four of these if you are inclined to make another set.
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I’ll send you a PM
So first piece is printed and it fits
20mm widener (old setup)
34mm widener (new setup)
My bearings are going to hate me for this but I’ll print the other 3 as well.
The 20mm widener had much less squish then I remembered. I think around 24mm would be neutral.
So the 34mm widener is about 10mm stretch
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Please be very careful, theres a lot of unsupported weight on the outside of that tire.
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Yes, I need to test if it works okay. I’ll check on the bearings regularly. With the 20mm widener I didn’t have any issues other then bearing wear being a bit accelerated (not too bad to be fair), but the 34mm widener makes the bearings very offset. Definitely not ideal. I am hoping that the move to double row angular bearings and loctiteing the bearings into the hub will resolve that issue.
If it doesn’t work out, I can go down to 24mm widener for a neutral tire stance. Need to keep the widener 14 24 or 34mm length to be able to run double row angulars. 14 would be too little, 24 would work for sure, 34 needs to be tested to make sure it’s not too much.
Unfortunately I need to get the spacing right to the exact mm to have enough axle length to run the double row bearings.
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Can you flip your wheels and run them inside out so the bearings are out near the axle nut instead of offset way inside?
It would cause wheelbite.
But also wouldn’t make sense. On track it’s the inner side of the tire that sees the higher load.
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True. I’m no scientist
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Some babysteps for the rebuild. Drilled the new truck mounting holes closer to the edge of the deck
And look at that ride height!!!
Axle is basically inline with standing platform. There’s gonna be a footpad on top, but even with that I should be standing less than 1cm above axle height.
Wheelbase axle to axle should be 41.5" roughly. About an inch shorter then the V5.
This is gonna be a real track weapon. Hopefully rivaling the V5s both in handling and performance.
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Installed bindings on the deck. They hug my feet super well.
The new binding holes are really in the way of where it would be ideal to route the cables. Cable can’t go under the arch of my foot because of the binding strap being in the way.
I am thinking of routing them down under the deck instead and use some wear resistant plastic sheet to protect them a bit
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Also just got some WFB bushings and tried them, still on the old deck.
95.5A, tall barrels front tall chubbies rear
They feel incredible. The center feels super controllable, and lean is super easy.
APS feels much more alive and reboundy with a less strict center. For purely carving feel probably APS is better, at least 92.5A APS compared to 95.5A WFB. For performance WFB is unbelievable though.
First ride was a high speed ride. First mile they felt weird. Center was definitely feeling tighter especially with slow inputs. On the edge though. They loosen up a lot. Within 5 miles I was reaching speeds up to 61 km/h 38 mi/h without any sign of instability. On a truck where I can max out the lean by hand. Could have definitely gone more there was zero sign of instability. Just easing into high speeds. Don’t want to eat shit in bindings / heelstraps at that speed!
Then went on a short T-race session right after 30ish hours of work without a break and with some back pain. Did 14.62 which is good given the circumstances.
First lap pushing it I nearly fell because I expected resistance but there was basically none at max lean. Leaning them in deep is effortless even at the 25/10 angles.
The setup feels incredible now.
I would love to try the same bushings at 2-4A harder though
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So today I’ve been karting with some friends and asked the people who run the karting if I could take my board around the track for a lap or two. Suprisingly, they said yes!!!
I’ve got two laps to impress the guys who’ve been running the track and I think I did decent. All time best gokart times are 62 sec, I personally did 69 sec on a kart today. And just under 79 sec on the board
Which isn’t a great time but considering I had two laps total and it requires a completely different line plus had to get used to a different grip level it’s not bad either. Also when I came off the gokart line it got dusty and grip wasn’t amazing. Should’ve tried higher pressures to maybe handle the dust better.
I didn’t get a definite answer, wasn’t trying to pressure them into anything. But it seemed like I might be able to come back for more sessions later, which would be awesome! 
Although this track is in Hungary and I only have the main board here for less than a month every year so it’s not going to be a lot of sessions sadly.
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Woah!! Jealous
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