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What if the same thing causes you to overcompensate and street face? What if both don’t drop out, and instead you just experienced one side dropping out when you wouldn’t have been able to have that happen prior?

We’re making big sweeping assumptions about what we think will happen, which is how this idea came to be in the first place.

Adding a second, unmanaged wireless control link into the mix is 100% guaranteed to increase your risk of unpredictable behavior from your board, at some point in your riding experience. Are the above assumptions of conditional safety benefit worth the guaranteed added risk?

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quick, someone use the shittiest remote there is with 15 receivers and see if it ever cuts out!

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I’ve had too many dropouts to count unfortunately, none led to street face luckily. I’m usually able to catch myself. If this is due to the having that cushion of signal loss probably not, who knows. The the front and rear are independent fyi… Still wishing there was a trigger remote that never lost signal

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Ahh, yeah on 4WD that’s much less of a concern as you could have a full ESC dropout and it likely wouldn’t be enough to throw you. The extra weight & drivetrain resistance makes a big difference- noticed it when I’ve had DRV fault related cutouts on my 30kg Big Chungus build. I still think using a traditional canbus link & a single reliable remote is a better solution even for 4WD setups, but my safety concerns are alleviated with that kind of setup. On a 2WD high-torque setup, having one side of your board drop out could actually be worse than just having both sides drop.

I sure see a LOT of drop-outs reported with the Mini remotes. I’m not sure why folks have decided to keep using them if they are this problematic.

If anything the core takeaway here is that if you are experiencing dropouts, adding a secondary identical receiver isn’t going to solve your dropout problem, it will increase your chances of experiencing them though.

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So your saying adding a back up receiver that different makes more sense

@BillGordon what is “this” remote? Never seen it before.

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It’s still not that simple because you’d need a true diversity scheme implemented.

Ideally your receiver (and transmitter) would be an MCU + 2 radios that would maintain spectrum staggered, simultaneous links that have link budget/RSSI actively monitored by the MCU.

If one drops out, the receiver can still provide a control signal from the auxiliary radio- the signal to the ESC is maintained while the MCU director the first radio to hop to another channel and re-establish its link. Rinse, repeat.

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Z.Mote

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I remember a time when shit was real simple around here. Buy a bunch of parts, take a photograph of them with some tools nearby, people think I build boards, drive over to @BigBen’s house and he builds the boards, ride the boards for 15 days until I’m bored of them, put them in a closet, buy a bunch of parts, take a photograph of them…

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Oof shut up. It me.

FWIW: I haven’t had to go that far because I use a non-shit remote.

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It’s when you closet the board and then basically just build the same setup again but this time the deck has a little lip on one side where the old one had a slightly smaller lip. Totally different.

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the solution is infinite redundancy. Dont use a fucking wireless remote. just hold a throttle that’s wired into the board. Its not that deep.

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Describing every PU streetboard I’ve ever built.

You guys know of some good solutions for keeping the motor phase wires away from the motors?
Inward mounted on a evo.

p clip

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But what if… I use two (2) remotes on the same ESC? Checkmate Satanist. :smirk_cat:

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Overly complicated 3D printed clip holder thingy. That’s how I would do it.

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@evwan

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I’ve come to the conclusion that I need to run double fisted 4wd.


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Haha can guarantee you’re not the first.

This is the way :ok_hand:



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