get some fancy stickers made that say “flight safe XXWH” or something like that, would make it less DIY looking
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I need someone to do that for me, everything I make looks DIY 
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The problem is that our battery’s look like sticks of explosives to the untrained eye. Especially when there are wires sticking out. My suggestion would be to make the individual P packs enclosed with a 3d print or something. They should look like a bigger camera battery or something with just one connector sticking out.
They have no way of knowing the true capacity of the packs so in theory you can just write whatever on them.
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I don’t think there is enough room in the Haya for that, but clean shrink wrapping and labeling would go a long way toward avoiding airport drama.
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You could add a thicker seal at the side to increase the height by a few Millimeters.
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I may have to go with this idea
Because that PCB is at least 2mm thick. I’d love to go with PCB’s. I’d wrap it in blue heat shrink with a very nice and 100% truthful official looking sticker with all the specs. [60.48Wh 3.6v 4.2ah]
Edit: I did it.
Your website is excellent @BenjaminF 
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Thanks man 
I worked really hard on it, so it’s nice to hear that folks like it.
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Looks like the 13s4p will fit with room to spare. If there’s enough room I’d love to add a buck and accessories like lights and USB.
Also the wheels I’m using just came in
All I need to do is buy the drivetrain from @Boardnamics. Turns out I already have the bearings I need. So what’s the hold up, me?
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How are you going to fit pneumatic wheels on a Haya? 
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Truck extenders 
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What bms are you going to use? Not that much Space left.
slightly different situation but same idea
i routinely fly my board between home and school with a currently 18s2p-soon-to-be-basically an 18s4p, all split into 6s1p packs
i think 13 sets of 4p isn’t a bad ideaaaaaaaaaaa, TSA doesn’t care how many packs you carry with you long as they’re all under 100Wh, be ready to be routinely stopped at security for them to swap the packs 
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I’m using a daly. There’s more PCB’s in there than needed if you count. There’s plenty of room I think
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UPDATE:
I havent done much but design the brackets I’m going to use to prevent wheel bite. These are angled because of the Adjustable baseplates im going to use and I want this to be a low rider with adjustable ride height
This is two parts that will bolt together with the mounting hardware. It will attach to the deck from the top and bottom. When the two peices come together they end up being a quarter inch of stainless steel. More than strong enough for my weight.
Constructive criticism is welcome
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It looks dope and I’m glad you added so many hole options 
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UPDATE:
I finally started on the battery. I decided not to use PCB’s because they are going to make the modules too thick. I rather have $60.
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Ah fuck how the hell am I going to get this to be modular. It’s gonna take a miracle. What do you think will happen if I charge this at 10a while the bms is rated for 8a charge?
Please give me ideas battery masters @BenjaminF @ZachTetra @Skyart @JoeyZ5
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Im no expert, bro, but I could imagine if you dont fuse the charge port you have a good chance for a fire,no?
then u will only be charging at 8a max, ur bms is gonna be toasty af tho
charger amp rating doesn’t mean it will only pump current out at 10amp, rather, 10a is the max it can do
unless i’ve learnt this wrong…
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