I was referencing the original question from yesterdayish, which made no mention of balance vehicles.
i need to take my pills brb
I’m not set on any connector. I want a connector that works and will be reliable. I am considering moving my electronics box to a position that will allow for better strain relief. I don’t think I can run the wires direct, I will have to solder an extension on, which seems like I’m just asking for more trouble.
I think I can find some type of automotive connector that may work. My main concern is the phase connector.
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MR60 or MT60 are the go-to’s
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I have the mr60 panel mounted right now. They come loose because of vibration.
the panel should have the female side of the connectors.
in any case, what gets weak and slips out is the male side. you should replace that, but if you can’t or don’t want to, a non-recommended solution is to spread the lobes of pins out a bit with something.
Yes, the female side is panel mounted. The male side has about 2-3 hours of ride time on it, so if I need to replace the connectors in that short of an interval, then I guess I will go with a different solution.
I ordered MT60 connectors. I think I will run them through a gland nut or some other contraption to bring them into the electrical box, then keep the connector inside the electrical box. Now I need to find a solution to the sensor wires that isn’t too bulky. I remember having some old automotive connectors that were pretty small that may work.
Is this going into an underslung enclosure?
I ask because I have nearly 10k miles running mr60s into panel mounts on underslungs and have not had one wiggile out once except when I snap trucks in half.
I believe the reason for this is I don’t have the wires free floating going into the enclosure.
Each board has restraint on the wires a few inches past the connection. One in the form of a riptide tunnel riser(which is a tight fit for the wires), and the other I use p-clips on the truck hardware.
From there the wires go back along the truck and loop up and over to the top of the motor so there is play to allow for the movement of the trucks.
If you’re underslung, I believe theres ways to fix your issue without having to find new connectors with out going hackjob and putting glue inside of them.
Got any pics of the setup?
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Currently the enclosure is mounted on the top of the deck above the rear trucks. I’m going to remove that enclosure, and make a new one that is underslung, and I was planning on doing exactly as you described here, strain relieving the wires with some adhesive zip tie mounts. I think I will still do gland nuts though. It will just be easier overall.
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Hey! Who you calling hack job 
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TBFAAAIIIIIR i was thinking of @glyphiks when i said it 
I’ve had a hell of a time when I accidentally got aome in there, literally had to carve it apart 
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Sounds like a good plan, only caveat is the easier thing. Ease of maintenance should be factored in and panel mount/exterior connections are way easier than pass through.
Just a thought
+1 for restraining
+1 for hot glue in connectors
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so squeeze hot glue into the female side of an mr60 then smoosh em together?
instructions not clear … 
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Tiiiiiny weeny bit of hot glue on the wall of the female, then squish 
could have sworn hot glue came after the squish.
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I suppose it depends on how well practiced you are
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Right now, they are the cause of maintenance. This is the third time I am fixing them.
@glyphiks I hot glued the shit out of them and added a strain relief portion. Did not help at all.
I leave my default bullets on and just do glands for the enclosures I designed - it’s very easy haha
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