Well off the top of my head you VESC is limited to 50amp
moto to 75a
Battery 45-60amp
Batt 50a
Batt regen -15 to start. keep upping it untill brakes feel right at high speed max -24amp (this is double the fast recharge rate of you battery so bare that In mined when braking down hills)
Moto Max 60 (any thing over bat max but less than manufacture motor max rating)
Motor min -20 keep uping it untill you fined brakes you like at slow speeds
ERPM limit 60000
Use the new VESC-Tool is my advice.
If you like you can reduce the battery drain to sufficient values for the pack.
There is a advanced tab in the wizard to manipulate that.
Motor regen should be same as motor max, Batt Regen should never be set low since that are your high speed brakes!
Don’t put the pack life over your own life!
I am using an old version of the Vesc tool for the Mac. The only reason I haven’t upgrade to the new Vesc tool is it took me a while to find a Mac version for the old one.
Has the new Vesc tool been ported over to the Mac?
You can use a Android smartphone.
Simply get a Bluetooth dongle.
If you have no android phone, get a cheap used one for some bucks. Android 7 or later.
this is all basically wrong. you can get 100a motor amps from only 10a battery amps, for example.
in the top left chart, for example, the blue line is motor current and the black line is battery current:
Duty cycle (Arbeitszyklus) and the four different Amp settings are important to understand.
Quick example: Battery voltage 50V, Motor max 80A, Battery max 40A
At 50% Duty cycle you can push 80A towards the motor while only 40A flow from the battery towards the VESC. Reason: At 50% duty cycle the motor is operated at 25V (50% of 50V) and 80A = 2000W output The battery delivers 50V at 40A =2000W
The VESC scales down the voltage and ups the Amps. 2000W Motor side = 2000W Battery Side
Once you surpass 50% duty cycle you can’t push 80A towards the motor any longer. The Amp flow would be reduced by the VESC till your amp flow is limited to 40A at 100% duty cycle (40A x 50V 2000W). The higher “Motor Max” value will give you more power at slow speed, but will be reduced to “Battery Max” at high speed. This can be helpful when you want to go up a hill at slow speed.
So if you want to push 80A at 100% duty cycle (95% is realistic max), you also need to set battery max to 80A (80A x 50V= 4000W).
For braking it is similar, basically just reversed: Battery 12S, 50V fully charged, Motor Max Regen = -40A , Batter Max Regen= -20A
At high RPM your motor generates at high voltage (e.g. 50V). In this case the “Battery Max Regen” value determines the braking strength. 50V x -20A = -1000W braking power. At slower speed the motor generates at lower voltage and the “Motor Max Regen” becomes more dominant. 25V x 40A =1000W braking power. Again, your VESC will scale up Voltage towards the battery and lower the Amps. The battery will see 50V and 20A while the motor generates at 25V and 40A. Your “Battery Max Regen” is set to -20A and this will not be exceeded! The VESC will not allow the motor to generate more Amps at a certain Voltage (Watts) than you can push safely towards your battery at charging voltage (per your definition of “Battery Max Regen”). possible: 25V x-40A = 50V x -20A = -1000W not possible: 40Vx -40A = 50V x 32A = -1600W (-32A exceeds -20A Battery Max Regen) VESC will reduce to: 40V x -25A = 50V x -20A = -1000W Motor Amps will be reduced to -25A to meet the Battery Max Regen setting
Its pretty much the same thing as for acceleration, just reversed.
Duty Cycle impacts the Motor Voltage. 10% =5V, 20%=10V, … 100%=50V. Amps will be scaled up or down to never exceed the defined Battery or Motor settings (current control).
What can you do wrong? If you set “Battery Max Regen” too low, you will have weak brakes at speed (since your motor generates at high voltage), which will get better the slower you get and the more the motor voltage drops (assuming that “Motor Max Regen” is set higher as in our example). When do you need good brakes? At Speed! So check your Battery Max Regen to meet the desired braking strength. This is why you need a big Amp swallowing battery and why small battery packs don’t work for good brakes.
Also note: Symmetric settings (Battery Max = Motor Max, Battery Regen = Motor Regen). will give you perfect linear negative and positive acceleration. No need for funky Watt control modes. The more asymmetric you go, the more you will experience a non linear response. Your battery has to be able to cope with the currents anyway if you want good brakes. You can’t store the generated energy in the UNIVERSE.
Good brakes are more important than battery life!!!
Do the maths: Break strength at full RPM (speed) = Battery Charge Voltage (V) x Battery Max Regen (A) = X Watt Max output power of the electrical System = Battery Voltage (V) x Battery Max (A) = X Watts . Your Battery is usually the Bottleneck!
hello, sorry for hijacking this thread aswell, what would be good settings for my 12s5p q30 dual 6355 170kv
motor manufacturer max current 65A link
battery is 100A peak, 75 continuous link
vesc is a dual maytech 4.12, rated 2x 50A cont. and 2x 240A burst link
settings per vesc:
motor max: 65A
motor min: -60A
battery max: 37A ?
battery min: -6A
im tryin to get the most power out of it, without impacting longevity too much
also im a bit confused about cutoff start and cutoff end, do i only set these on the master vesc ?
@Trampa thanks for the advice. I have downloaded the Vesc Tool to my phone and ordered a Bluetooth dongle. For a dual motor setup is one dongle connected to the master Vesc enough, or do I need a BT dongle on each Vesc? Also, are there any video tutorials / instruction manuals you’d recommend for using the mobile app? I’ve viewed the video on Benjamin’s page but I wasn’t sure if there were more structured / concise user instructions anywhere else?
Is completely wrong.
6A *50V = 300W braking at top speed only.
When do you need good brakes? Answer: when you are fast.
You want to have this at -25to -35A.
VESC-Tool will set it all correct for you. Simply run the wizard and you are fine.
If he’s running a 5p pack with 30q cells, wouldn’t that be 4A (rapid charge max for 30q) x 5? Meaning a min battery amp setting of -20 amps. Divided by two so -10 per VESC?
I’ve heard many run this higher, so -15 per VESC would be 150% of max. Or -20 each for 200% max setting for min batt
I’m running 2p 30q and have batt min set at -6 currently, from what information i was able to find here on it, which is 200%. And my high speed breaking is terrible. I was under the impression that running this higher would grenade my battery
We do not charge the battery from empty to full. We only create a short spike. You can also set that to minus 50A. There is no issue for the battery. You can only apply a certain brake strength anyway. Beyond that point you fly.
Thanks. So 2p 30q could I get away with Batt min -20 per VESC just fine? Currently at motor Max min 40/35 and battery 28(14 ea) max and 12 (6ea ) min
I understand it’s just burst. Any reason to be concerned with long braking downhill? Only instance really is parking garages and it’s maybe 10 seconds at full brake downhill
That’s no issue. Do some data logging and you will see what flows back to the battery. Strong brakes are more important than cell life.
Absolutely agree. Appreciate your input. Thanks @Trampa
Testing now. Much much better. Will hold me until the 3p is built
@Trampa, as suggested I finally got around to installing a bluetooth dongle (flipsky 2.4g v4 4), however the vesc tool phone app states that the vesc firmware is too old and as such only limited functionality is available. It also states that as I have a bootloader install I can just update the firmware using the app. When I try to update the firmware it like looks like it’s updated successfully, however it actually remains the same at ver 3.31 (I am using a flipsky vesc he 4.12).
Well, obviously your bootloader is broken and you need to follow the SWD PROG procedure.
Your Flipsky ESC probably does not have a SWD port, so you need to find the SWD pads on the PCB itself.
Minute 5:35 onwards…
Ok thanks for the speedy response. I’ll probably just leave is as is. The board is running fine and the SWD PROG procedure looks like bit of a hassle.
It’s fast and FW 3.55 onwards can have the bootloader loaded multiple times via USB. If you sort it now, you will never have the same issue again. Also you will have the convenience of smart reverse, configuration backup, data logging, HFI and many more.
It’s probably fast if you know what you’re doing 
It would be great to have all these features, however I am very slow at building my board and I now I’ll be even more limited on the amount of time I can devote to building (my third baby just arrive yesterday 
). What is the vesc connected to in the video? Does it need to be pre programmed? If my vesc does not have a SWD port how is it connected (soldered)?
