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10s li-ion, focbox 1.6, flipsky 190kv 6384, 60/30 motor amps, 30/10 battery amps, FOC, sensored below 2500 erpm, 50k erpm limit, current smart reverse control, low power mode on nano (70% I think)

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you specified a 50k erpm limit? that might be the cause

It never hits it though, it shouldn’t even be able to go that high

i think you’ll hit it at 38v with a 190kv motor and 14 stator teeth

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Bumped the erpm limit to 190kv42v7pair/0.80trim=70k erpm and its good now…still doesn’t go past 40k erpm though

i think it would hit 50000 if you were using bldc instead of foc

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Does BLDC detection rip the motor apart?

It started VIOLENTLY shaking as it slowly rotated then failed detection (bad detection results recieved, both sides)

i don’t know, but my understanding is since foc uses sine waves, the motor can only see the full battery voltage at the peak of those sines, which means in foc the max effective rms voltage the motor sees is less than the full battery voltage that the motor could see in bldc, which makes the motor turn slower at its peak rpm in foc than in bldc

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A post was split to a new topic: Please help me with my Patriot build

whats the problem with using wood screws to mount the enclosure? Compared to threaded inserts

Once you take them out/put back in a few times the threads will be pretty wallered out and junk. Just… not a good idea.
Honestly, I could write paragraphs as to why wood screws should never be used. I’m high and don’t want to do that though.

Just don’t fuckin do it.

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They work great!.. once. If you need to take off your enclosure more than a couple times over the lifespan of the board, you’ll wear out the wood you’re screwing into, and the screws will strip out, and then you will have a bad day.

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yeah ok makes sense. I guess i gotta do the fancy thing

Really? How are they working great with pressure distribution along a polymer enclosure and not cracking it? I guess if you have pan head wood screws with hex/torx/Robertson drive…

At that point, use a fucken insert

Start a build thread and c+p your problems there.
You’re problems are not quick answer solutions and the replies would get lost in this thread

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It’s not fancy. It’s modularity, repeatability, and functionality. They’d eventually vibrate loose. To solve this, we use adhesives, metal, and threadlocker.

Adhesives meaning it’s good practice to put the slightest drop of something on the outer threads of the insert as you seat it.

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As said before, chuck up a build thread and people could probably help more. Perhaps say where you’re based too as there may be some helpful people…

I was making use of hyperbole. Wood screws are no bueno for this application, that has been established.

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Oh, I was actually agreeing with you on the fact that they can work nicely as a one time thing. I just made the presumption that the average person’s idea of a wood screw is a self-countersinking kind, which would mostly wreck an enclosure. I’m just urging that if somebody is lazy enough/otherwise wants to use a wood screw, to at least get a pan head/other sort of flanged variant.

This is what happens when 50% of work for the past 6 months is being one with the McMaster catalogue…

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