That is what i was thinking. the more foward the more stress on the drop down. I have heard that it has cracked, but that was a bad batch i think and it is super rare.
That sounds good, but i must mention that this is a dremel router.
A dremel 3000 with a router adapter.
Think it will be okay only difference with that and a ârealâ router I think is the extra torque from a bigger motor, found something a bit more definitive than my gut feeling 
https://public.tableau.com/profile/willadams#!/vizhome/Carbide3DCNCFeedsandSpeeds/Sheet1?publish=yes
Says .5mm (about 1/8th inch) depth of cut and some other speeds and feeds info for a machine (just think like a machine)
Doing searching on this lots of cautionary measures taken by people doing this industrially so definitely take care mask up and do it somewhere with good airflow (outside probably)
Well the dremel router is crap.
And the cheap bits i got off amazon took a crap too.
They went blunt in 15sec.
It does the job⌠in 1h instead of 20min.
Also after all my reading i obviously missed something.
I am totally bumbed rn.
I just put my dickyho kegel mounts on my tb 110mm and the axle is not long enough on the tb 220 trucks⌠What did i miss? Why donât they fit? Which pulley do i need to buy?
Yah I donât doubt it on the bits surprised you had issues with the Dremel though was it seizing up in the carbon? People seemed to indicate you need diamond or other specialized bits for cutting CF.
I found the best bit for cf is a carbide milling bit. Bit more pricey but cuts it like butter and will last you ages so long as you donât let it fly out of your dremel and across your workshop to then vanish between dimensions.
of two of the same colors, the lower voltage one will be closer to pack negative.
Carbon fiber is incredibly abrasive and hard on cutters. If you try again, Iâd recommend acquiring some 1/8" endmills specifically designed for cutting composites - Regular ones, even carbide, will go dull in a hurry and have the wrong geometry.
Regular carbide endmills are OK, but they tend to pull the carbon fiber apart while cutting, which makes for a nasty, ugly edge. A down-cutting endmill (flutes push away from the dremel as it spins) helps reduce that.
These are a pretty good bet, theyâre a combined up-cut and down-cut to prevent the fibers from being pulled out the front, or pushed out the back.
Volt meter connected exactly as per below.
But it always reads 100% plus the voltage is a bit off itâs right when fully charged but slowly goes out of sync.
Meter shows 39.4 and multi meter shows 37.7.
Is the meter faulty? Also the settings option doesnât do anything.
Itâs probably not faulty as in broken, just not that accurate.
Either the battery meter, or the multimeter, or both could be off, and the only way to tell for sure which is to check against a known accurate voltage source.
They rarely give a manual for that type of meter, but it does have to be set correctly before the fuel gauge will work. Have you tried holding down the setting button while turning it on?
Nice one had not tried holding whilst turning on now I have some settings which are quite strange though no idea how to program it.
F L P and numbers can all be changed
Edit: Good video on the settings if anyone has same volt meter
Is it possible to fit two 6384 motors on a TB218 truck with 15mm belts (or 12mm belts) and BN or BKB mounts?
I have a bunch of used 18650 Sanyo cells. They all have varying voltages since theyâre used. It is OK to put them for a 10s4p pack? I figure the whole point of the BMS is to balance the cells and charge them to correct voltages. Yes?
@mojoo
The idea is that the cells need occasional balancing to account for slight variations in capacity.
If they are used then youâll need to run a capacity test on EACH cell and pair them up such that each S group matches capacity as closely as they can.
Mismatching within a P group is fine. BUT you must equalize the voltages before assembling, otherwise big boom
I agree with everything TowerCrisis said above, and I will add that you shouldnât expect amazing performance from a pack made from used, low current cells. The ones we usually use for packs have a much higher current capability than what youâll find in laptop batteries, for example.
A Samsung ICR18650-22F (a common laptop cell), for example, have a (brand new) capacity of 2.2Ah, and can supply a maximum of 4.4A each.
A Samsung INR18650-30Q (Our preferred esk8 cell), on the other hand, has a capacity of 3.0Ah, and can supply 20A each.
If you do decide to go ahead, you need to measure the capacity of each cell, and then you can plug all those numbers into this handy calculator, and it will tell you which cells need to go in which P group for them to all have the same overall capacity.
If youâre set on doing it:
To do it correctly, do it as the two above said.
If you know that they should have similar capacity (same model, same age), and donât care about doing it perfectly, you only have to do this:
Make sure they all have the same voltage.
No, no matter how hard i screwed the bit in, it would slide out and the result is i have a section that is 3mm too deep. So annoying because now i have to epoxy it back to hight and also to solidify it, even though it is a small section, the evolve deck is not the most sturdiest.
Yep, will look into that.
My dad has a proper router but no carbide bits. I am sure I can sacrifice one to get the job done 
This saves me heaps of question. Cheers Overlord.
@MysticalDork yes this Is just a quick job, not a business. I will do with what I got as it is a small job. It will just take more time.
Thanks all!
Any one got an answer to this? What legal pulley are super thin? I thought dickyhoâs one was already small. 
Remove the Spacer you got with the 220 trucks. The added bearing from the pulley takes that space up.
There is no spacer. The axle is super short.
@torqueboards sorry to aummon you, do you have a solution?
you need bolt on pulleys
Oh so these are the new ones⌠I thought the older gen. Then itâs probably like moon said with the bolt on pulley.
