Hell yeah, thanks @Andy87
Everything comes from the battery man. Thats your absolute starting point. What that battery can deliver continuously. Forget peak. Thats just a number where settings are concerned. All it is. 30q are rated officially as a 15 amp discharge cell so hence the 60 amp bms. We know that those cells can safely deliver 20 amps continuously so in this instance your bms is a bottle neck. No dramas just so long as you know that and don’t exceed those values. 60 amp battery max is your limit on that pack. Battery amps are power at speed. Motor amps are low down power and thats what you want. Check the manufacturers motor max stated amps (continous) and play with those values according to heat until you get the ride you want.
What is an acceptable motor temp? It it internal winding temp or if I hit it with a laser on the outside reasonable if I don’t have a motor with temp capabilities?
With an outrunner motor (The type commonly used in esk8), the entire outer can spins, so it’s not well-coupled to the stationary windings thermally. This is a good thing, because the magnets in the can can’t handle as much heat as the windings. The can should not exceed 80c but the windings can usually handle up to 180c. (this is still pushing the motor pretty hard, and if you get the windings up close to 180 in still air, you risk cooking the magnets - they start losing their oomph around 80c.
Unless you’re doing something ridiculous to your motors, you should be able to keep your temperatures well below 80 and 180c for can and windings respectively. I usually set my motor thermal protection at 100-110c or so when measured at the windings.
Ok thanks, I’m not pushing anything hard at all, I just like to learn everything I can. I have an open motor so I’ll shoot through the opening to the motor to the windings just for fun, my motor doesn’t get uncomfortably warm to the touch even.
Nano x, and my vescs are both set to ‘current break with no reverse’ or whatever its called… I would assume that makes it impossible for my remote to reverse the direction
I’m finding I lose some traction on my front wheels when going any direction other than completely straight. Kind of unfortunate :s
Is it front wheel drive?
It is now… Lol
It was rwd last time I configured the vescs
Worth checking. The nano has a reverse button so I would assume the x does too. I used mine for exactly ten minutes and ripped its cold nasty heart out of my rig.
Anyone fancy with an eBay link, for 10mm washers? I really can’t find those.
I have been looking for the same. There are plenty for 1 mm thickness or greater but I wanted thinner. I just requested a quote from these guys for 10.3 mm ID stainless steel washers. 1/4 and 1/2 mm thick. We’ll see how the price looks.
I get the hate, but my nanox has been spot on
No dropouts, no funny signals ( even in the heart of my town which made every other remote spaz out)… Nothing
Maybe I just got really lucky
Do I need to link my Nano x crash gif again? Brand new, out of the box, used less than 5 minutes… Stuck in full throttle.
I fear for anyone’s life that uses the nano-x remote, cast iron trucks, or any 3d printed components in the drive train.
I wanna see th crash, I’ve been riding hard with the nano x on one of my boards for months without a single hiccup
Well the quote came back in minutes. The following are all in stock.
10.312 19.05 0.254 100 $50.00
10.312 19.05 0.508 100 $35.00
10.312 15.875 0.508 100 $27.50
Not in stock 3 to 4 week delivery
10.312 15.875 0.254 100 $125
My Six Shooter hubs aren’t quite 10 mm between bearings. If I put a 10 mm spacer in the wheel clicks a bit with the axle bolt fully torqued. If I put a 9 mm spacer in and torque the axle it binds the wheel. I think I am going to have to bite the bullet and pay the $77.50 for 1/4 and 1/2 mm thicknesses. I think having two different ODs for the two thicknesses might turn out to be a good thing.
Is voltage sag just as damaging as if you discharged a battery below the minimum voltage?
Thanks for the concern, but it’s been fine 🤷
Okey i’m a bit worried, just plugged in my antispark switch from martinsp to my battery but the button light is always on, it is however not connected in both ends only to the battery if that matters. While disconnected i get no connection (measuring with multimeter) on the negative side of the antispark like it should be i think? I also get a resistance between negative and positive at 22M Omh should they really be connected or is that normal? Is my antispark broken?
If cells are low enough for me to be thinking about this I don’t push it. The cells will recover if they are just dragged below minimum voltage for a very short time due to voltage sag but they’re just about empty at that point anyhow, personally use really conservative limits (using lipos I charge them to 4.15V per cell and cut off starts at 3.7 and ends at 3.5, generally I recharge when they’re around 3.7) but swapping batteries helps avoid down time for me. I’m also less aggressive on the throttle after the first full charge ride in general.
^^ explains for lipos same goes for 18650 cells just different range of voltage depending on the cells.
Long story short it is bad to discharge below min voltage when under load but it is worse if the batteries are resting and don’t recover above the min voltage or are held below min voltage for extended periods of time.