@wafflejock Settings seem to be “reasonable” though. I’ve set mine at 55A and ride with pneumatics and heavy offroading. Maybe it has more to do with FOC because my run in BLDC.
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Oh I did totally miss the FOC mode part of it, my limits are actually set the same I just haven’t pushed it that much guess I am on BLDC on my current build too though so could give it a shot see what I can peak it out to, but just seems unnecessary in every day cruising (like I said if not pushing it easy to get up to speed with under 800W, I’m small and on flat land though so I get my scenario isn’t the same as everyone).
Tried limiting battery to 40A, motor down to 50A, and finally both. Lowering motor amps down helped the most, but still getting cutouts, and don’t want to decrease it even more because braking took a noticeable hit already.
I have 2 other identical ESCs, I’ll try those as well, and also give BLDC mode a shot. Thanks for the tips guys!
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I’ve also had a certain motor that did this. Never figured it out. Ended up just never using and never selling that specific motor. So many questions.
Mine was a FOCBOX 1.6 in unsensored BLDC though.
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Hmm good to know. I think the motor will die eventually due to the can hitting the stator, but kinda wanna keep using it while it works well.
There are some more motor diagnosing tips in here than there used to be, especially if you follow the link
Seen it, did that before I assembled the drive train 
Yeah, the motor I have passed all those as well but the link with the electrical testing was not there before and I did none of that
7 inch tire options? Anyone got any magic for me? I know about the innova wheelchair ones, hoping for something a bit better.
evolve roadies are very durable. black is best, the others have a softer rubber.
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Flipsky dual 6.6 plus, for the power button there is a +, -, and k wire, I messed up the power button and need a new one. So can I just cut the 3 wires from the jacked power button, solder the +, - to a new power button and take out the K wire? Im not sure what the K is for if anyone could englighten me on that.
Looks like for a switch with LED like
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hey guys, how can i find out what vesc tool version my controller is compatible with ? is there a support at maytech that i could ask ? at first glance i diddnt find anything
its this one:
i bought it from eboardsolutions, there is stated on the website its only for vesc tool 0.94 / 0.95
so for now i downloaded 0.95 and updated to fw 3.40
but id like to know if i can use newer firmware also 
Always flash V4.xx hardware compatible software, don’t use ackmaniacks on that VESC because i tried it and it gave me DRV failures for whatever reason. Newer firmware, will be compatible.
Edit: Also the ‘antispark’ is just shorting the 3v rail to the ground, so if you value your MCU’s you wont be using that either.
It’s compatible with 4.12 (“410”) VESC software
im gettin those exact drv errors, thats why i hoped i could get a newer vesc tool and firmware version…
i am aware that i need 4.12 compatible fw, i was just wondering why i should use only vesc tool 0.95
i guess i dont understand how it all comes together 
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Oh fuck man that’s less than ideal news, are you sure you didn’t: short phase wires, go over the 60,000erpm limit, use too long of a battery cable on 13s? If not, try using the oldest pos v4 firmware you can find, then ackmaniacks firmware then the newest firmware again. If you’re still getting DRV failures at 0.5a loads send it to the DRV wizard.
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What? I would not use 13S — that is the problem
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Agreed, but some people choose to use it and wonder why their MCU/DRVs are fried.
Edit: to be honest man I agree with almost all of your arguments you’ve had across the 2 forums including 13s, dual receivers, 2 separate VESCs instead of dual. You’re almost my idol.
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Run the battery down to 45V and see if it works. But you won’t have but a few km of range because it’ll be dead. But it will eliminate that variable for testing.
Of course that’s unless physical damage has already occurred
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