Also note that the hill climbing slows down immediately to 3mph or less and the esc was only 40C. It keeps going and I made it up the hill, but it looks like the esc did throttle at the top.
First off let me say that the 6.6 based ESCs (any of them) tend to be more efficient and robust for FOC than stock 4.xx ESCs, as well as being able to handle larger or more difficult-to-drive motors.
I’d say that the maker x is probably better than a stock 4.12 on it’s own, but not by a whole lot because it’s physically very similar in size, whereas a Flipsky 6.6 for example is quite a bit larger and more massive, and most of that extra mass is aluminum heat spreader.
That said, if you were to add a block of aluminum as a thermal reservoir, or a heatsink that’s open to the outside, then that would definitely improve the thermal performance to a significant degree.
TLDR the maker X won’t perform much different than a 4.12 power wise, but it is much easier to cool so it should be easy to sustain that power longer.
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Is there a way to connect one power switch to two 4.12 fsescs? If not, could I put two switches on the enclosure for each vesc and be able to choose between 2wd and 1wd?
I mean 6.6
Yeah, that’s what everyone does. Typically its x2 XT60 connectors joined to a single XT90 connector (pole matching).
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It should be battery -> switch/antispark -> splitter -> ESCs in parallel
If you have independent switches and run one side only, the power from the undriven wheel can fry the ESC since there is nowhere to dump the energy (not connected to the battery and powered up)
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You can use a loopkey for that
hey folks - anybody know the axle length of Evolve DPK’s? (front truck, I know the rear’s have that evolve specific axle thing goin on)
The Evolve Supercarve DKP axles are 305mm front and back
I believe thats the whole Hanger + Axle width. I just want the Axle bit.
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Can I get a 12v 5a push button switch and run 50v 2a through it in any way? Using it to toggle my light array and aux systems (<100W), there is a 5v bus but it’ll be on the switched side rather than the battery side (passive draw)
Also what button does the FSESC 6.6 dual plus use? I’d like to have matching buttons side by side
~232mm hanger.
edit: axles are ~35mm each.
edit2: got out the tape measure.
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Short answer, yes.
Longer answer, yes but it will affect the lifetimes of the switch, and could lead to premature failure or arcing. Most switches have an AC and a DC voltage rating, and lighted switches also have a third rating for the light, be it neon, LED or incandescent. Ideally for best life and least risk of untoward happenings, you should ensure at the very least that the current rating exceeds your use (Which yours does), and the voltage rating also exceeds your use case (Which yours does not.) Failing that, I would recommend finding a switch with as high of a voltage rating as possible, even if it still isn’t technically high enough - It’s better (or at least less-bad) to exceed the rating by say 20%, than by 400%.
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So should I get an antispark or something instead? Just don’t wanna spend more than I have to
You don’t need an antispark, you just need a switch that’s rated a little higher. switches are pretty cheap, and you can get them in a huge range of sizes, shapes, types and ratings.
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Not very cheap but they do exist. In example this one is 48v2a
https://www.digikey.ca/short/pddbwr
Edit: I changed the link for a cheaper one
Lol the antispark is the same price with way higher ratings
Changed the link for a cheaper option with same ratings. Also antisparks like to die without warning
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cough cough loopkey cough cough
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