Thatās weird. Iāll get screen shots of the too tomorrow, something you can match up against.
Yah would turn on RT App and look in the app configuration where it will show ppm in the bottom of the screenā¦ Will see if I can get a screenshot here, but would check to see if itās showing idle input from the receiver or not to see if itās an issue with the transmitter/receiver or config in VESC.
See that bar at the bottom when you disconnect remote, if it jumps then receiver is giving it throttle up signal. You could maybe do some things in config still to stop it from accepting jumping signals but best to have the receiver just sending idle when transmitter disconnects.
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I am going to hold off goofing with this any more until I temporarily install a pushbutton switch. Pulling the loopkey with the wheels turning full blast is no fun.
At least I know my drive train is ready to go.
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Is Blue Loctite 242/Red 271 good enough?
What exactly happened there ?
You need to set the failsafe first, then set your PWM (āPPMā) center and deadband in the VESC Tool.
Make sure when you turn the remote off, it goes to idle.
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They have hoyt puck remote but deadband is a good point too increase that if itās just going a bit above idle when transmitter is disconnected. Deadband increases the range in percent around idle that is considered idle.
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I have a Hoyt St. puck, not a mini remote. There are four buttons. Power, Mode, Reverse, and a fourth button that toggles that is essentially undocumented. I have to say the documentation on the remote is basically non-existent. There is a YouTube video that shows how to pair it and briefly explains what each button does. They talk about the center point of the toggle button in the video but donāt say what the button is for.
I havenāt found anything that explains how to set the failsafe. There is no ābind keyā. You press three buttons at once to bind.
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Show a screenshot of the same screen Iām showing when at idle with the transmitter (TX) on and when you shut off the remote and motors are running can tell you particularly what to change in there then or if it looks completely wackadoodle and needs mfg assistance/correction.
My idle and TX off screenshots look exactly the same in that view because I programmed my TX and receiver (RX) to be sure they are sending the same mid-stick value in both of those situations. If your receiver āidleā is configured just a bit too high (the presumption here) then increase in deadband will help. If the RX idle when the TX is disconnected is vastly different then this is something that should be changed in the receiver itself (mfg problem most likely).
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Thanks. I will do that this evening after I install a switch.
I will leave the XT90S loopkey in with the switch. Power on the switch, then put the loopkey in to prevent any rush current. I could still use the switch to power off that way.
I think maybe your PPM dead band or Neutral Zone is messed up. Hereās what I found.
When the remote loses the connection the ESC immediately switches to the defined timeout current, after the defined timeout. That timeout current is most likely 1000ms (1s). Hereās how you set those values.
Using the Ackmaniac ESC-Tool, go to App Settings > General. On this screen, the timeout and timeout brake current are defined. I suggest leaving them at default values (100ms & 0.00a).
Next, go to App Settings > PPM > Mapping. While connected to the VESC (top button on the right icon menu) enable Realtime Updates App (the green highlighted button shown below).
(I rotated it 90 deg CCW to save space)
Now when you push and pull the trigger you should live data in the PPM Pulselength Mapping window.
Your Center value should be close to zero, if its not come back and let us know because that could be the cause of your issue.
Run the trigger to max acceleration and max break a few times, then hit Apply and then Write the App Configuration.
Let us know what happens, Iām sure we can figure this out.
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Maybe someone could point me to the right thread related to VESC enclosures? I searched around this forum but couldnāt seem to find much.
Iām currently using this:
Itās not bad, and it fits on my board well, but I had to gut the insides to fit my VESC and cables. I sealed up the bottom with silicone, and the heat sync now has nothing to dissipate heat to.
I want to see if I can use these same mounting holes with a new enclosure - maybe Iām in need of a custom designed enclosure that can be 3D printed?
Any recommendations are greatly appreciated 
more room in the enclosure wouldnāt be the worst thing in the world
Can you weld to the negative rim on the positive end of a cell? You could theoretically make batteries more compact and easy to wire, and there shouldnāt be any active material at that end
Is there some kind of differential to run 2 Wheels by only one motor?
Could imagine when there is something like that, it would be for belt or gear drive.
Does it exist? No
Can you? Yes
Should you? No
Itās a lot of complexity to transfer power without slipping
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I can not in this case 
Yes, itās possible - In fact, the Tesla model 3ās battery pack is made this way - all the cells are oriented positive-side-up, and the bottoms of the cells are in contact with a cooling plate, while all the electrical connections are on the top end.
Greatly speeds up and simplifies the pack-assembly process, which is important when there are over 4400 cells in each battery - no need to flip the pack over to do connections on both sides.
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You can do it, but itās far better to have one motor per wheel.
The only reason cars have differentials is because itās not practical to put two engines in them. Electric cars do have one motor per wheel.
Itās possible but adds extra weight, less reliability, less performance, and more cost.
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I need your guys opinion on something,
I can either buy surfrodz TKP adjustable baseplates
Or
Buy psychotiller Liquid TKP Trucks.
Both are almost the same price.
(The tkp are actually cheaper lol)