0 resistance or near it is only possible with super (cooled) conductors everything else has some resistance I believe silver might be lower resistance than copper but can look up some resistance lists on Wikipedia or use Wolfram alpha to compare broadly. In general just adding more cross section to a wire lowers the resistance but for other components it depends on what they are made of and how they are made (resistors are usually thin wire wrapped around ceramic, electrolytic capacitors are sheets of conductor separated by an insulator rolled up).
For general brush up or learning on electrical stuff too think Khan Academy is pretty decent site, mostly just ohmās law stuff but Kirchoff and a few others are good to think about sometimes too. If you prefer video YouTube channel here is good for theory stuff too:
One motor seems stickier than the other. I took the wheels and belts off, and took a video of the cans spinning down. Should I try to get the c-clip off the motor, and try to service the bearing in there? Or should I just buy a new 6374 motor.
Yes. As the speed goes up, the torque goes down (assuming constant motor power). Since power is torque times RPM, as RPM increases torque must decrease for the same power.
~210 pounds (95kg). Deck is the MBS comp 95 Birds.
Might need to add that i like my steering a bit stiffer. A few months ago i lost a Shockblock in the front (red) which got replaced by a Orange one. I recently noticed that if i lean to the right there is a small (gap?) where the deck moves without resistance until it it has resistance again. The small part without resistance obviously doesnāt contribute anything to the steering so its a bit wobbly and loose until its hit that certain spot where the resistance kicks in. Not sure how that happens. THe Shockblock is aligned properly.
EDIT: the āsoftā part without resistance could just be the orange shockblock not being that hard on the top because its not fully compressed.
When Iām programming my VESC, it see both VESC IDās on the canbus, but the remote only makes one motor work after the input setup Wizard, despite the motor configuration makes both motors spin. What am I doing wrong?
Go looking through the settings in vesc tool. There are quite a few tutorials that cover basic setup and canbus operation. Just make sure the vesc that has the receiver is set as the master and the other one is set as slave.
Iām running sensored. TB4.12ās on BLDC mode. I was hoping there was a troubleshooting step I could try before having to disconnect the motor from the ESC. I really do appreciate all your help.
You can check out the PWM real-time input in the vesc tool to make sure the full range is being used. If itās just too punchy and assuming using current control mode can turn down your motor current so the peak just isnāt so high.
Those are trim on the different channels. Donāt mess with them unless something is fucky.
You can adjust the throttle curve in vesc tool, as well as adjusting the current settings.
But in my experience you just have to get used to not being jerky on the trigger (in either direction) and leaning into the throttle/brakes.
