@Jbev 12s vs 8s doesn’t affect the torque, only the top speed. the motor current limit affects the torque.
8s will accelerate just as fast as 12s with the same motor current limit (to a lower top speed).
12s will draw less battery current to supply the same motor current, and give the same torque and motor heating as 8s assuming the same motor current limit is used.
guys i have a quick question…
with my e-caliber trucks and mounts, since the hangars are becoming thinner towards the end, its hard to align the clamps further out,
so how bad is it if i mount them a bit more towards the center and move the motor pulley out like 3 millimeters to accomodate for this ?
will this put a lot more stress on the motor axle ?
this seems to be the only solution the align all this somewhat straight
@Jbev I should add that if your battery current limit is less than your motor current limit, then at the upper end of your speed range, your power will be limited by the battery current limit, not the motor current limit.
in this scenario, if you use the same battery current limit with 12s vs 8s, and the battery current limit is significantly lower than the motor current limit, then at the upper end of your speed range, since the same battery current limit equates to less watts with 8s, then the same battery current limit will result in less motor current in the 8s system at higher speeds, and that lower motor current will result in less torque and less acceleration.
only at the lower speeds, the controller is able to simply draw more battery current from the 8s system than the 12s system, to supply the same motor current, torque, acceleration and motor heating, while also staying under the battery limit setting.
this scenario of lower torque with 8s at the higher speeds will only will happen if your battery current setting is less than the motor current limit setting.
if the battery current limit is the same as the motor current limit, then the torque and acceleration will be the same with 8s and 12s, but the top speed with 8s will be lower.
close to your top speed with either system, assuming proper gearing, the motor current isn’t limited by the motor current limit setting or the battery current limit setting, but rather by the back emf voltage produced by the interaction of the spinning magnets in the motor with the stationary winding coils. this back emf voltage, which directly opposes the battery voltage, is of equal magnitude and value to the battery voltage at no load speed, and it prevents significant motor or battery current from being utilized which effectively prevents further acceleration.
How do I wire a 3 prong switch with Bestech BMS 2 white wires? From what I gather online the brass colored prong is negative, the middle one is positive, but what do I do with the 2 white wires? Connect to the third prong?
Any help mucho appreciated.
What material can I put on the sticky side of longboard griptape so I can easily remove and reapply the grip tape? 
Ill just get new grip if it’s not worth the trouble lol
@Jbev taking things a step further:
bemf_voltage = motor_rpm / motor_kv
pwm_effective_voltage = duty_cycle_%_bldc * battery_voltage
winding_resistance_ohms = (foc_resistance_detection_one_phase_milliohms / 1000) * 2
motor_current = (pwm_effective_voltage - bemf_voltage) / winding_resistance_ohms
torque_newton_meters_per_motor_amp_KT = 60 / (2 * pi * motor_kv)
motor_torque_newton_meters = torque_newton_meters_per_motor_amp_KT * motor_current
battery_current = (pwm_effective_voltage * motor_current) / battery_voltage
The Caliber E trucks are a PITA for this very reason. What you’ve said will work, but it’s not ideal and puts more stress on the motor bearings causing faster wear and very slightly lower range.
A better solution I’ve found is to get the clamp in the correct spot – even if you have to put a tiny shim under them – and then once you are sure they are in the correct place, JB Weld them onto the truck hanger and don’t ride on it for 3 or 4 days. They won’t budge. They will also be permanent, never separating from the hanger again.
Do you have BMS photos?
A switch simply connects or disconnects the three prong ones are usually going to be one that supports being “on” in different toggle positions depending on which pins you connect (normally open or normally closed). Easiest way to see what’s going on is use a multimeter in continuity mode to test which pins are connected to each other when the switch is toggled one way or another. Typically there is one common pin and one pin connected when the switch is in off mode and the other connected when the switch is toggled the other way, one pair of the pins will never connect the third one is the common.
Edit only other reason I could see more than two wires going to a switch is for an LED but in general two pins is regular switch only turns on when in on position three pin it can be connected or disconnected when in “on” position (can be connected when in off position as well depending on which pins you hook up, should be no danger in just trying too though switch is same as just hooking those two wires together).
So how do you get the motors off if you can’t move the mounts off the hanger on a dual setup?
That’s a good question. I use single setups a lot of the time. I guess you would saw the mount plate with a hacksaw.
I think a good solution would be JB welding one mount down and then using some kind of cross bars to hold the other one true with the help of the one that is JB welded in place.
I mean, why not? 
‘‘Michel, where did those 40$ go that were in my wallet?’’
‘‘Oh, sorry honey! just had to get a new motor mount…’’
uhh i really dont fancy either of those solutions, i diddnt expect to run into such issues with such a common esk8 truck 
What’s the best way to figure out why a board hard-braked randomly? Just biffed it at about 20, but the board remained on and functional afterwards. It did the same thing after I tried riding it again immediately after at about 5 mph so I could run it off, but it’s probably going to keep happening. I’m in a very rural area right now so I don’t think it’s necessarily remote interference.
Get a metr.at module or other Bluetooth so you can get telemetry data sent to your phone and logged can see any faults happening and remote input with new metr app and module.
Set your remote failsafe.
If you turn off the remote with board powered on but upside-down, does it go to neutral? Or does it brake?
Metr is still being shipped, sadly
Just tried it, it went neutral, no hard braking
Cast is cast… it’s a pretty common really.
Why do you think so many mounts add cross braces.
