Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

Yup, thanks for stepping in. A nice guy and appreciative for the help he got. I invited him over.

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is it super necessary to have a speed ring between the end nylon nut and the outer bearing? I feel like the inner race is raised enough that the nut never touches the rest of the bearing?

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As long as the nut doesn’t touch the seal or the outer race it should be fine. I prefer using them if possible.

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Measured the Evolve motor mount. I don’t have torque boards motor mount, so can’t say if they are compatible. Either way, torque boards own bumpers seems to be a better option.

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can someone help me find wheel gears for this type of wheel

Those are Fivestar hubs.
Not many options for those hubs.
Here are the only options i found;

-@moon Gear drives

More info here

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hello guys, first time posting here, long time lurker over at builders forum…

short story and question incoming

so 2 months ago i put together my first real board (real as in not from diyeboards.com)
i went with a landyachtz evo, 12s5p q30 pack, dual 170kv sealed/sensored maytech motors sporting 15/42 ratio on 107mm flywheels driven by a 4.12 maytech dual vesc…

as you can imagine i was going for pure torque, i live in a city with a lot of stop and go and i dont really need(ed) higher speeds
people turn heads like a motorbike is starting next to them, its pretty funny…

anyways, now i want to try 18T on the motor pulley which would increase the topspeed from 45 km/h to 53…

now my question is, what is the benefit of having a setup like this in general, if there is any? i really love the insane acceleration and breaking, i fully use the evos shape to lean myself into the forces applied, but now putting a bigger motor pulley to gain some more speed, seems somehow counterproductive, because that could have been achieved in other ways initially…

can anyone more experienced explain how this all comes together, compared to a build with higher kv motors and differend gearing (that also somewhat focus on acceleration) ?

im sorry if the question is somewhat abstract or dumb :slight_smile:

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Be warned if considering a purchase from the eskating.euro place

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Did not know Brian. thx i will edit my post.

I think the way you did it is perfect. Keeping the wheel pulley bigger and geared for torque allows you flexibility to change it later – just by changing the motor pulley.

Had you used a 15T motor pulley and it was geared too high (aka - the opposite problem) then you couldn’t simply put a smaller pulley on the motor because it’s not good to go under 15T and going under 14T is bad on an HTD-5M tooth profile.

So basically, you did it perfectly and now what you have is flexible and adjustable, which sounds like what you want to do :man_shrugging: :slight_smile:

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ok that sounds reassuring, thanks a lot! it just somehow felt too good to be true to just having to switch out the motor pulleys to achive what i want without any major downsides…

out of pure coincidence my cousin recently ordered 2 sets of flywheel pulleys from eskating.eu, the delivery time was 3 weeks, and italy is our neighbor country :confused:
one of the teeth that go into the wheels core immediatly cracked when we tried to insert them the first time, with no real force, which is also kind of unfortunate

other than that it has yet to turn out if the pulleys hold up over time tho

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BTW, pretty nice first build!

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thanks a lot! it is a blast to ride, and the board shape and awesome brakes really evoke confidence in riding

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How do you guys remove the c-clip from a motor to open it without a c-clip tool?

i guess i would try using a small allen key in each hand and pull in opposite directions, then away from the motor - but im just a noob with 2 left hands :stuck_out_tongue: - just dont apply too much force or you will deform it

if your battery voltage is close to 42v, and you have 2 motors, this chart can give some idea of the possible perfomance (regardless of tire size, gear ratio or kv).

You can adjust your tire size and gear ratio so that you have the same “no load speed mph @ optimal gear ratio” as shown in the chart to optimize for a given set of conditions for example based your chosen battery amp limit per motor and the kind of hills you want to be able to climb. This chart works to a fairly close approximation regardless of kv (as long as you pay attention to the no load virtual ground speed not the gear ratio).

does anyone have a link to a Mac vesc tool that supports 3.103 firmware. Or can someone give me a file to downgrade my vesc firmware to 3.102 so I can run it on the Mac version of ackmaniack

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Go to 0.84

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I had to get a circlip tool :sob:

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alright gonna head to Lowes to get a Metric wrenches and Socket keys for my first build. Do i need anything else?