Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

:pray::pray::pray:

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Those are Riptide tunnel risers, one of them I sawed with a hacksaw blade.

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those are badass

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https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/products/73092/riptide-tunnel-risers

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Hey guys I’m just wondering about my focbox settings and it’s regenerative braking. I know that to brake the motor it puts out some voltage and charges the battery but what happens if the battery is fully charged? Do I have to put a brake resistor on it?

If you’re using your BMS discharge then it will CAN cut off your brakes :exclamation: (some models of BMS) but if you are bypassing the BMS then it will just very slightly overcharge the battery.

@xatonic I started a thread for this specific topic

Are the king pin 3/8" nuts 16 or 24 TPI?

If anyone finds a link for those :arrow_up:, please share :slight_smile:

I’m not joking. I already put it in Amazon but I’m not the best when it comes to FUB stuff.

Does anyone have links (preferably eBay Aus) for epoxy I can use to strengthen my deck as well as go glass frit eventually

Hi, I need to reinstal the entire electronics of my commuter board to a dremeled Haya.
This involve disconnecting my HCX-D596 80A (charge & discharge) from my 10s5p battery, rearrange the P group in a new geometry, then reconnect the BMS to the battery.

HCX-D596

I’d like you guys to check the BMS disconnecting order reported below in order for me to avoid unwanted magic smoke:

  1. Disconnect balance wires from BMS
  2. Disconnect BMS B- from battery -
  3. Disconnect BMS P- (power negative) from load -
  4. Disconnect BMS C- (Charge negative) from charger -

In order to reconnect the BMS to the battery on the Haya deck:

  1. Connect battery + to Vesc + , loop to charger +
  2. Connect BMS C- to charger -
  3. Connect BMS P- to load -
  4. Connect BMS B- to battery -
  5. Connect balance wires

is it ok?
Thanks for your help

Disconnect from BMS should be…
0) unplug from charger and pull loop key / switches to off

  1. load -
  2. balance
  3. battery -
  4. charge -
  5. all + in any order

Reconnect should be the reverse

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I think @Sender or @yelnats8j might

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Every epoxy will strengthen your deck. eBay got lots of cheap offers.
Try out-Go

Epoxy itself doesn’t add much strength on its own - it’s usually used as a binder for some high-tensile fiber, such as carbon, glass or aramid. Any general purpose epoxy will work okay for that as long as it’s thin enough to wet out properly.

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You want something like fiberglass or Carbon fiber to strengthen the deck.

Me and @Sender use system three ailver tip epoxy.

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What happens if you have ESCs in series? Could you run 2 6s ESCs in series off a 12s battery?

I’d imagine the switching of the FETs would break continuity but the capacitors should even that out enough to be stable

I don’t see any real purpose for this, I was just curious

This won’t work at all for reasons that would take a long time to explain. Good idea, but it’s a nope.

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lol fair enough, thanks!

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You would want things in parallel to split load really, but yah the ESCs wouldn’t be synchronized to open the gates (FETs) at the same exact time and at speed changing from one set of FETs open to another is a very small window of time (would need to use canbus or something to keep thottle signal the same for both and really be firing the gate opening synchronized).

Edit just reread and see you meant for higher voltage handling, basically components on ESC are rated for some max voltage you’d have to do some kind of voltage division and yah still keep power delivery synchronized doesn’t sound feasible to me easier to use components that can handle the voltage desired.