See if you can play with the maximum and minimum switching frequency in BLDC
As an experiment, if I wanted that, and I do love motor noise, than I would first try lowering the maximum switching frequency.
See if you can play with the maximum and minimum switching frequency in BLDC
As an experiment, if I wanted that, and I do love motor noise, than I would first try lowering the maximum switching frequency.
YesâŚpeople in my country buy drill and milling cheap Chinese machines, put some motors and software, then use it âŚbut they are not really preciseâŚAlso really expensiveâŚI think I might tryâŚit is that or never know hereâŚ
Well, I think youâll have at least a bit of an advantage due to the ballscrews and linear rails - as long as the frame isnât twisted or warped, that should get you started pretty well in terms of precision.
Definitely check the machine with an indicator and/or a square, straight edge, etc before you accept it. If itâs crap, send it back and get a refund.
Yes, Iâll do that, thank you, appreciate your help
I have such a specific problem Im not entirely sure anyone can help and its not even a sizeable issue until it becomes one but my e-switch built into my maytech 4.20 VESC seems always closed regardless of whether the switch is depressed or not, thinking the ground for the switch is shorting with main battery negative if anyone thinks that would emulate the closed loop.
The primary failure mode of those FETs is to fail closed â which manifests itself as an âalways-onâ condition. This might not be your problem, but itâs probable.
You could just use a loop key
Oh I do use a loopkey, was just wondering if it was something I fucked up or just something that happens.
Thank you!
Pretty sure the answer is no. From what I can find searching on these they run on 12V power and just trigger a relay to allow the current for the starter to flow and looking at the wires and connector just guessing canât put that many amps through a thin wire like that without having it melt on you.
Edit I guess if the question is can you use this as a âbuttonâ in place of an LED switch or the like then the answer might be yes but definitely no to directly having the power flow through that switch.
@wafflejock Through my searches, I read about high current ignition switches (for systems without relays/solenoids) but couldnât find any. Wires can always be changed but Iâm pretty sure the circuit inside the switch would melt
Yeah I picked up one for cutting off power on boats that I think was rated high enough but it was/is massive so I never tried putting it on the board, probably should have checked the dimensions before I ordered it was this one:
thing is huge though and yah never installed or tested because is just too crazy looking and massive (this coming from a person with brick lipos on the board and a hole drilled in the nose for locking up)
Edit have heard of others using breakers I think since they can handle high current depending on the type of breaker and arenât quite as big as the one I linked but still very bulky, personally just unplug my lipos or used a loop key built into a case in the past.
been thinking of a mtb build with 9ââ tires. I want a second pair of wheels for road use and much better range. Is there a big difference between Gummies 125mm and Haggy 147mm wheels? I prefer pneumatics and haggy having the smallest diameter should be great for range but is the range really better with gummies? not interested in tb 110 because i want an AT gear drive
Iâm sifting through spare parts and realized I have an old Wowgo 10s2p Samsung 22p pack and a set of hubs. 10 amps per motor does not seem like enough but I guess it worked before when it was a pre-built.
I wonder what kind of performance Iâll get out of it. Doesnât 20 total amps seem too low for anything, or am I just privileged with 80+ on my custom boards?
The answer as always is it depends, only way to know what youâre actually drawing on a given setup is to slap some bluetooth telemetry on there and see for yourself⌠that or just limit your amps on one of your higher powered setups and see how much of a difference it makes in acceleration.
Generally low battery current will not affect your starting and low speed torque and acceleration much (0-5 MPH letâs say) but your torque/acceleration will taper off more steeply as your speed increases, when compared to a higher battery current.
As long as thereâs enough power to overcome drag youâll still reach the same top speed, but itâll take longer.
20A total from battery is fine. It wonât feel as powerful, thatâs for sure, but move you it will definitely do.
I wouldnât try to go fast up a steep hill but on flat ground it will be fiiiiine
Those wowgo dual esc;s run 18amps per motor. I have pushed one to 25 per but the bms blew up. 20 per side and you should be fine. I had a focbox meepo running those settings. Keep an eye on the motor settings though because they do not like getting hot. Watch the max brake too because those skinny little phase wires can act like fuses under heavy braking.
Science!!!
Oh god Iâm going to kill my self with this