Only change I’d make is adding a finger hole up top, but I could prolly get use to it the way it is. I’ve got a VESC 4.20 from Flipsky and am also curious if it would work with this remote.
and some of them just use straight up XLR microphone connectors, that’s what i was using on my boards for a while until recently when i switched to a laptop style charge port.
It’s a lovely remote, the Bioboards just started using them so i got to retrofit a customer’s board with one last night and test it out. It’s soooo lovely and has three speed modes, a dotted fuel guage programmable to 12S, and fits well in your hand and the throttle feels good. I may start using them. They feel more premium than the maytechs and based on their construction they can probably take a beating. I have no idea how well they resist interference though. I think @maner may have tried them out too.
Have you ever tried the Hobbywing ESC with the proprietary remote? That’s what I am comparing this remote to. It’s an upgrade compared to the Nano X, but still not Hobbywing level. The VX1 flashes when loosing signal, the Hobbywing vibrates, who is monitoring the led’s while riding? The battery gauge on the Hobbywing will display after you hit a button, saves a lot of battery and makes it stealthy. Also the casing, the finish is nice but on the light side.
I feel like you and @mmaner have the powers to convince them to improve a little more!
Don’t get me wrong I am using it and liking it, it’s close but still not there.
Ive tried the FlipSky Nano, I was impressed with it. Performance is great, the case could use some work, its not perfect. I have a couple of VX1’s in bound, I’ll post up when I get a chance to try it.
I have fit checked my enclosure about nine times now but haven’t drilled any holes in that beautiful virgin deck yet. Tracking says my battery and speed controllers arrive today. Is it measure nine times, cut once or measure ten times, cut once? I can never keep that straight.
measure 11 times, get nine different measurements, make 7 different marks, get agitated and throw things, drill in the center of all the marks as an average, discover the whole box was moved out of place between multiple holes, urinate on box, swear at the kids, go watch TV.
When it comes to trouble shooting things, to my knowledge, there’s not a diagnostic report we can run like an OBD II scan on a car. What’s the best way to determine if a motor is bad? Or if the remote is a problem, or if there’s an VESC issue without having extensive electrical engineering knowledge?
Maybe the answer is - go to the forums - and if so then that’s fair, but there seem to be an elite group of pro’s here who can answer almost anything. I assume most of this community has a similar mindset and loves to know how things work, and I feel like I’m so behind on even how these forums work - I was lucky enough to catch the wave of migration from the last forum. Anyway, what’s the best way to catch up as I guess, a secondary question to what’s above?
Connect to the VESC with USB and see if you can read the remote signal, and/or switch the two receivers and see if the problem switches sides
Assuming you’ve wired your system “duel independent drive” (with 2 remote receivers) and you’re not using CANBUS (as @Trampa recommends), you can simply switch the VESCs and see if the problem changes sides or not.
@longhairedboy@mmaner in regards to the flipsky vx1 I’ve found it to be a great remote in my past 2 months of testing out however you may want to Consider swapping out the Lipo in the vx1 with one of a higher capacity. with other remotes I’ve tested I only charge the battery every 3-4 weeks but with the vx1 I fined myself recharging it every 3-4 days.
Thanks man - I’ve used the canbus in my dual setup, but I’ll do the motor test to try and eliminate that, and try switching the remote to the other side of the Vesc input to see if that helps.