Generally Slime is only good for small punctures - an actual slice/gash will be much more difficult to seal.
You can try to patch it with a repair kit as well.
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Does anyone have any good recommendations for easily replaceable fuses? I fried the slave half of my Flipsky dual 6.6 vesc. 
I have no idea why it happened and thereās no obvious signs of damage on the unit, so looking to add more redunancies to hopefully prevent another one blowing
Ideally something that could be soldered inline with my power cables and be pulled out/replaced if needed. I have a 12s mountainboard setup where Iād like my amperage ceiling to be at 100A continuous, so maybe something like this @~130A? [link]
What Flasher said, or you can get automotive blade fuse holders.
If there is no physical damage on the vesc, then I doubt a fuse would have stopped it. Fuses only really protect from gross electrical overload resulting from short circuits or the like. They just wonāt act fast enough to save a few hundred transistors on a fragile piece of silicon.
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Is it possible to use the working master vesc on the board to fix a potentially bricked slave vesc? It seems so, based on this thread where they mention āVESC Rescue via SWD PROGā. Is this what youāre referring to?
From what Iāve read, Vesc were redesigned to allow rebooting other corrupted esc. I used a stm32 nucleo to fix mine when I bricked it. Maybe someone has more insight on this rather than me. Iām still on a learning curve so Iām not your best shot 
@mmaner paging you as I know you have good experience on the matter of escs
Interesting; I also found this video of where the SWD PROG menu is on the vesc tool. So since the Flipsky dual 6.6 is just 2 copies of the vesc on the same pcb and one works, I think I can solder a few wires between the SWD ports on the two copies, and use the working one to flash the broken one? This is all speculation still, so please correct if wrong
Hereās where the SWD ports are on the board (upper part of the right image:
How do you guys fix squeaky and popping bushings?
I picked up some bones wax and cant figure out how to apply it right to get rid of the noise
Iād just take everything apart and gob that wax on everywhere anything rubs against anything - pivot cup, bushing tops, bottoms, and inside of the bushings themselves, the washers, the divots in the hanger, and the kingpin. Maybe take a heat gun to it and melt the wax into those places.
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Soldering cables is a bad idea. You canāt run a motor with SWD interconnected. The ESC would get damaged if you have a permanent link.
Thanks @ZachTetra.
So the Caliber are a good option? Which exact version and width do you recommend 184mm? That means just width of the hanger right without axles?
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He should get the appropiate JST socket and solder onto the pcb.
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I just upgraded to dual drive and iām not sure about the belts.
One belts already has 250km on it and the other one is new. Is it wise to still use both and have different Motor positions due to stretching/being stiffer or should i buy 2 new belts and use the old ones as backup?
Yes Calibers is the overall easiest option at the moment. I recommend the 184mm hangar (10" total length) if you plan to use a single motor, dual 6355, dual 5055, or diagonal 6374. If you wish to use dual 6374 end to end you will need a Torqueboards TB218 truck but those are much more expensive when you factor in the mounts
If you get the 158mm hangar (9" total length), there isnāt enough space for the motor mount and you night need to file away load bearing parts
I prefer one new belt and one old belt. That way they both donāt get old together, and if one breaks itās more likely the other one WONāT break so you can make it home on one motor.
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The her being esk8 of course
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But still adjust the belt tension so that both are equally firm?
where did you get these?