Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

[RichardsGore]

Does the flipsky smell burnt or look corroded in any way.

[wafflejock]

Can’t connect to computer is usually a pretty bad sign unless you just damaged the port itself. If the bootloader is working then it should at least show up as a serial port (assuming serial drivers present on host machine). If the bootloader and or firmware are corrupt then you won’t be able to connect but you should fix that issue. If usb is hosed or bootloader not there look at threads about how to use st-link (what is it and why do I need it thread). Also physically inspect the board for any burns or signs of water damage or any little triangles of blown out parts on the top of the drv chip it should be perfectly smooth basically, if something in it burns out tends to blow out the top of the chip.

Long story short the st-link will bypass the normal usb connections on the vesc and use serial connections directly on the stm32f4 chip that is the brains on the esc and part you are sending config data and firmware to when you “flash” the vesc. With the st-link so long as the mcu and st-link port isn’t fried you can still connect and flash firmware (I think even use vesc tool to configure but usually I just fix bootloader then do firmware updates etc. from vesc tool over normal usb).

Unity not booting? You are not alone! (How to fix the bootloader)

Hello! I had the pleasure of dealing with a broken bootloader for my unity. Since I got quite a few requests for this and it was not a pleasant issue to fix with non-responsive support I decided to make a guide for it. Always try to go the route of support with this first! After I tried (and failed) this initially Enertion claimed I broke the warranty. This is a BS claim (at least in the EU where I live), but proving that is another headache. There were a few guides out there, but none of them …

[Bread]

Thanks for the response! No, it doesn’t, I have had it indoors for the last 9 months

[Bread]

Thanks! I’ll look into st-linking and see if it helps

[nomadic_myke]

I got sick of waiting for neo boxes and purchased a second-hand Unity last week (from the last Amazon batch) to get my latest build up and running. The first thing I noticed was that the phase wires look really tiny compared to what comes on the Flipsky 4.12s. Is it necessary to replace the phase wires with 12 or 10 AWG wire?

I am planning to hook up a 12S4P of P42A cells and 6380 motors. The Unity is attached to a 3DServisas mounting plate which I am assuming will help a little with the thermals.

What battery and motor amp limits should I consider with this setup? Are the phase wires going to be a bottleneck?

[b264]

14AWG is okay for phase wires.

Conductor Current Ratings [SRO]

I’d like to make an easy-to-find list of current ratings for esk8 use. If anyone has edits, corrections, experience, or thinks it can be better, please describe what you think should be changed. Popular esk8 sizes in bold. [current_capacity] This chart is labeled for continuous and not instantaneous. You can pretty much double every number for instantaneous, for a couple seconds or less.

If you read the whole thread, 14 AWG can do 32A continuous all day (45A for 3-phase) and 48A just getting warm (68A for 3-phase) and that’s continuous – double all those numbers for a few seconds or less.

So 14AWG is just barely enough for motor phase wires in most esk8 cases. 12AWG or even 13AWG is far better though.

[kadeanderson]

What’s the best antispark on the market? That is rated safely for more than 60a continuous

[b264]

Currently testing a @Gamer43 prototype, cannot answer that question yet.

I still advise loopkey at this exact moment in time

Haggy/Gamer43 Antispark Testing Results [SERIOUS]

Original Sales Thread

<a href="https://forum.esk8.news/t/would-you-buy-an-antispark-update-all-antisparks-have-been-sold/22812" class="inline-onebox">Would you buy an antispark? UPDATE: All antisparks have been sold</a>

This wiki is for posting results from the Haggy/Gamer43 Antispark community testing. All have been sold. I believe 15 units went out in total, so we should have a good sample size. Upon testing completion please cast your votes for the Haggy/Gamer…

[kadeanderson]

I saw the group buy for this but I also heard that it’s not really the gamer43 design. I heard the actual one is a lot better. @b264

[b264]

This one is a Gamer43 design

[kadeanderson]

Aww yes but those arnt really available to purchase though correct ? @b264

[b264]

No, they are in prototype

That’s how you know they will be good. “Actual QC”

[kadeanderson]

Got it, well hopefully I can get my hands on one after the prototype. Anyone know time frame @b264

[Rosseland]

Hi guys, got a 12s5p with qc30 cells, what should the voltage be around?

[b264]

36V to 50.4V, assuming they are Samsung 30Q cells

[Rosseland]

Yeah it is, im gonna charg it fullt up tomorrow. But according to my metr and Davega it stops around 90%, gonna check the voltage when it stops tomorrow.

What would you think that the problem is? To weak charger maybe or bad pack?

[b264]

Measure the voltage from your charger. It’s very possible the pack is bad but you need to test things to know what the problem is.

do not accidentally short out the charger or pack

Don’t stick multimeter prongs in a charge port. Ever. Make a plug that plugs into it, and stick the multimeter probes on the wires, if needed.

[Rosseland]

Will do! Thanks for the tip. Find it a bit wierd that the pack would be bad, cycled less than 10 times since new

[Athrx]

You have no idea how many times i was tempted to stick my multimeter in there as an alternative to taking my board apart. Soo close to chaos.

[b264]

Most of my tips come from experience