im right after testing my EMTB on dual chain-drive
I had 2 strange situations with cut-offs while acceleating heavily, but it was ok in like 2 seconds
i checked for faults but the main FOCBOX had none, and can-connected showed:
here is motor tab (exactly the same on the other one)
Hi gurus. Looking for opinions. My fsesc mini 4.20, threw up an abs over current error a couple of times on the first ride (error log showed 80a filtered, 140peak on the flat at 12mph!!! Weird). Put it on the bench, took off the belt, ran set up again. Set limits at 30/-30 motor 60/-10 battery. 10s1p lipo. Hybrid bldc sensored not FOC. Weirdly during hall detect sensors 0 and 7 were coming back with a value 255 (and correcting to 6). Anyway all seemed well otherwise. Blipped the throttle a few times, fine. But then fsesc reset. Tried again and this time audible pop and slight electric smell.
Fsesc no longer respondsâŚ
So I understand the fsesc is blown, prob the drv chip. Prob faulty in the first place (4.20 hardware doesnât have great rep I know).
However my big Q - was it the motor? Should I replace the motor and vesc? Motor is a 6374 hobbyking 149âŚ
Advice much appreciated!
Unlikely any issue with the motor you can check the resistance of the coils/phase wires to see that there isnât a short or something strange. The hall sensors I believe you typically do see something like 3 âactualâ values and a couple 255 (Iâm not privvy to details of the code or setup there so someone else can maybe add detail but I donât believe thatâs too abnormal, recall seeing it when setting up my sensored motors and no issue).
Depending on the motor kv the voltage of battery and the VESC you could have gone over erpm limit of 60k that tends to blow out the DRV or it maybe had some bad connections (ground plate under the DRV is somewhat notoriously difficult to get soldered well 
my best guess is faulty ESC though not to do with the motor.
Nice to have a cheaper hobby grade ESC (for large trucks or cars) around as well to just sanity check hardware. I love the VESC but they can be a little fragile (especially if new to all of this)
Are the gate resistors 470 ohm or 47 ohm?
Do a hand test
Whatâs your belt length, I assume you have 6354 too?
Can you recommend the idle pulley?
You donât have problems because your wheel pulley is more inside the wheel, while mine is stocking out a few millimeters. These are the millimeters you have between your motors ^^
In this pictures, the motor mounts are more apart that they should be - the belt is not straight but a little bit off/diagonal because of that.
@b264 I saw you talking about TVS Diodes a long time ago and was considering adding one to my VESC as an extra layer of protection. Iâm currently running 10s but would like to experiment with 12s. Would the SMCJ51A-E3/57T be OK for 12s or is the reverse standoff voltage too low? Its similar to the one you recommended but with a peak pulse power rating of 5 kW.
Simple question: does riders weight affect top speed?
Shouldnât it only affect acceleration
As long as your system has the power to reach top speed why should it affect it
Dunno if itâs true but itâs the way I have always seen it
thatâs my logic too, but real life results seem to show something entirely different
Thatâs probably cause your system canât manage to acccelerate you quick enough to get you to that speed
It doesnât have the required torque to get you there
The fatter you are the more air drag, tyre trag and other small things like bearings slow you down.
But, assuming you are carrying a 10kg ideal 100% aerodynamic iron bar vs a 200kg one, they should both eventually get close to the same top speed, although the heavy one will take more power (100% losses at that point) to stay there
Is there a magic combination that can safely make me go faster than 45km/hr and still have a decent turning angle?
Anything close to that speed and my board feels like iâm riding my front entrance rug through dirt dragged by a car.
Also, shock pads for caliber trucks? Anything close to that? Is it a thing? The more i ride through london the more i realise a full suspension truck kit makes better sense hereâŚ
I am looking for some of this right now and just got a 300-500 miles estimate from this post Dickyho AT vs HaggyBoard AT
âRear ones wear much faster, probably around 300-500 miles for me.
Will depend a lot on your riding and wheel torque.â
What angle are your baseplates? My split angle boards are real stable.
I think 50° each. I rerouted them as drop-through now and they seem way more stable in low speed maneouvering, but i gotta wait for tomorrow to really test them
Yes. Theoretically a motor should be able to get up to its rpm limit regardless of weight given enough amps.
You will see the losses start stacking up with heavier loads because youâre using more amps to achieve the same rpm and there are more heat losses with higher amp draws.
On the flip side, when your board is unloaded on the bench, itâll pull low amps and get to top speed quickly without racking up as much heat.
@Athrx generally you want a lower angled rear plate for stability at speed. Iâm running 50 in the front 30 in the rear.
for.a custom prototipo. which would you chose? help me decide.
molicell is spec king, makes the choice easy for ya.
Can you really fit an extra cell in in each P group if you do 20700?
