Simple version Battery Current max REGEN goes to the battery. a safe max battery regen based on the specs you list is -3100ma / 1000 * 5p = -15.5 Amps.
Because braking is done in short burst you can be advised to set it to a larger value. I donât have the expertise to advise you there. so Iâm sure someone will chime in. Iâve seen double used a fair bit tho.
Motor Current Max Brake, my super fuzzy simple version: is current generated in the motor. it can be more because itâs kinda scaled by by speed before it hits the battery. roughtly at full speed you canât get more than battery max regen of braking. but at lower speeds the motor current can be higher and brake harder, but the current at the battery wonât be as high as at the motor.
take that with a grain of salt, maybe someone will say it clearer than me. :). but the gist is there.
ohh ok thx. That explains why i went from -24A to -12A max brake regen and my brakes sucked at speed but as i slowed down they got strongerâŚinteresting
ok so i changed the motor temp type to 100c ptc and now i was riding and it tryed bucking me off the bored an set the cut off at 95c it rode just down the street
sigh
I cleaned up everything, loctited, etc etc, let it dry a bit, put everything together and the motor slight grinding sound is gone. But now i have another problem.
Under 4000erpm, below which hall sensors kick in, both motors make an odd noise. Like a shaving machine slowed down. By all means, the sensored start works, but it seems odd how jittery it is. Like it overshoots, then brakes, then does it all over again x20-30 times a second. Amp draw under 4000erpm is also constantly at around 2-3amps while over that is a solid 1, mostly 0.
Is this normal? Are sensors meant to work like this?
You can quickly and easily notice that Home Depot has no idea how to engineer vehicles.
You can tell because they have one single drawer of metric hardware in an entire hardware store full of FUB crap. You canât even get a tape measure that has metric on it. You have to order those online also. That right there tells you that you shouldnât trust a single thing that they say when it comes to engineering electric vehicles. Not a single word.
The only piece of esk8 that I get at big-box hardware stores, is GE Silicone 2*+. Itâs in the paint section.
Literally not one single other piece. Itâs all ordered online.
Just ordered a flipsky vx2. Currently have a vx1. I see both are 2.4GHz and the board looks the same. Will I need to change the receiver or just pair/settings and go?
Well, the original problem was grinding motor, almost guaranteed loose magnet or dirty bearing, that seems gone now, but running some low rpm tests i discovered this weird behaviour. I have no experience of what is normal hall sensor behaviour.
It makes me wonder if i maybe reordered hall sensor pins wrong (maker-x esc has connectors mirrored⌠lovely). I donât even know if detection would fail if a/b/c wires are the wrong way :c
I swear thereâs a total of 3 strands of copper in each of those little sensor cables. Theyâll definetly fail first, iâll give you that, but while they work i want to get the best of them.
Iâm also kind of hoping that hfi will get more possible frequencies in the future. From inaudible to some motor scream that makes every esk8 enthusiast moist. Maybe start low at 500hz and work all the way to inaudible?
Right now itâs at âbad microwave transformerâ level
The common sensor mode we use is actually âsensored hybridâ. Basically the vesc needs the sensors to know where the motor is at low RPM, but above a certain speed it can tell just by the back-EMF signals coming from the motor, and so it stops relying on the sensors.
TLDR yes, itâs normal for the vesc to switch from sensored to sensorless at a few thousand erpm.
I get this part, i understand why itâs like this, but canât figure out if the sensored part should indeed sound like a stepper motor or iâm doing something wrong
