Anyone have an idea how a split angle tkp set up would feel? I’ve experimented with 45/35 rkp so I have an idea of how it would change but not sure about traditional kingpin.
Don’t the Flexls have something like a 45/35 split?
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Are there advantages/disadvantages to motor shaft size? 8mm vs10mm?
I have a flipsky 4.20 dual that I’m using the newest VESC software on. Is there a way I can program it so that if my remote disconnects my board will free roll instead of brake?
If you’re going to be running it in high force applications I reccomend 10 over 8 for the strength. Some have snapped motor shafts before though it’s rare.
With 8mm shafts you can often get slightly slammer pullets than 10 meaning you can do a slightly taller gear ratio.
10mm is stronger
however,
8mm is lighter
most pulleys on the esk8 market are for 8mm
Yep. For a guide on how to do that with the Mini Remote, check here
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Score, I have that remote, thank you!
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Be sure to turn off the remote with the board upside-down (and turned on) to verify the failsafe works 
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Hi i got the flipsky vx2 for my raptor 2,0 but the bored keeps throtling , and when i tuch the trucks they dont feel hot more like luke warm
im going to set eatch motor on raptor 2.0 to 60a -40 is this fine ?
Out of curiosity, is the mini the only way to do that? It seems like there aught to be a VESC setting to stop it from defaulting to brake, braking doesn’t seem like the safest default.
There are VESC settings for SOME of that, but the Mini Remote also has trim and failsafe adjustments.
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There are some failsafe settings in the vesc for cases of loss of connection to the receiver or similar scenarios.
However there is no way for the vesc to know if the receiver has lost contact with the transmitter. THAT situation is what setting failsafe on the remote will help with. You want the rx to send either a neutral or mild braking signal to the vesc when it loses contact with the tx, as opposed to going full throttle or full brake.
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The dust free spots generally mean contact to the stator right?
Is there any shop to buy a new motor shaft? tb 6374
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Hobbyking has some for 6374. Maybe it will fit
edit:
My bad, it says that they dont have them now, but turn on alert, they are showing up from time to time
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Welp, i cleared out my rubberband reserve today and went for a ride. The very first thing to note is that at 12s3p and 190kv the board is scary fast. I could only go about half throttle for a few seconds at a time. Definetly wasn’t expecting.
Secondly, i tried to accelerate from standstill unsensored and got a drv fault. How and why? Is it normal? I know for sure it took about 3 attempts to get me rolling. Only 1 error though.
Lastly, i got one more drv fault when the phase wires disconnected from vibrations (just a test ride. Eh). I tried to accelerate and it almost threw me off the board at low speed, quit when i noticed my power button on the street.
Again, is it normal? Does if fuck up the esc? It still works, for now…
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Currently looking for Higo panel connectors for the sensor wires, but not sure which one to choose:
A
https://www.e-bike-technologies.de/index.php/en/connectors/connectors-signal/connectors-higo-mini-b-series/higo-mini-b-panelmount-connectors/higo-b6-bpt-200-detail
B
https://www.e-bike-technologies.de/index.php/en/connectors/connectors-signal/connectors-higo-mini-b-series/higo-mini-b-panelmount-connectors/higo-s6-bpt-200-detail
I’m planning on attaching then to the side of the ESC enclosure, like in the picture below. I think A would put less strain on the hanging connector and less prominent to detach but wanted to hear your thoughts.
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Uncensored you have to push start
What vesc is this though I thought yours were being repaired
Also make sure your bullets don’t come unplugged
Your should shrink wrap on top of the connection to keep them stuck together
12s with 190kv on my gearing gets me to around 40mph+
I have only ever reached 35 though
For me I use a vx2 with speed modes as I wha little for chill rides mode 2 is great (2 out of 3)
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The bottom replacement pcb from maker-x esc arrived, everything works now. Aaand, yeah, figured out that i have to push eventually. Too lazy to rewire the sensors for now.
I also know about the shrinkwrap, but the plan was to do a lap on the street and return.
Problem now is i have 2 trampa vescs in the process of being repaired that are probably too overkill for me. Money pit, money pit…
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Yah even when test riding just electric tape anything that’s just wires and has any potential for disconnect and duct tape for anything that needs to be held on mechanically. It won’t be pretty but you won’t be losing parts on the street 
Also Tupperware is an ugly but effective solution for housing electronics temporarily. Make sure everything is double side taped down and or duck taped down and should be relatively safe for short tests.
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